FV's New Models II
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Monday, February 27, 2006
Sunday, February 26, 2006
Yep - by amazing coincidence, the Milanese once more "adored" the same familiar faces we all love, so....
A Jay McCarroll(?) reportedly called Heidi Klum a "twat" after she asked him to design an Emmy dress worthy of a "red-hot mama" - just for her - and then chose a Dior dress for the event...
Twat is a "derogatory term for a person whoose behaviour is considered to be extremely or intolerably ignorant, obnoxious, offensive or moronic" - and also a slang term for the female vagina...
Another term used to describe morons is "twit" - a few years ago, Lady whatshername was declared by UK Vogue to be the "It girl of the year"...the Mirror then run a poll asking their readers to vote for the "Twit girl of the year" - won by the same Lady...not everyone is being as respectful to Conde Nast faves as NYC "fashion journalists"...this is what I reported back then:
...Remember the top Vogue "It" Girl in recent years, Lady Victoria Hervey? She is the one who took over Tara Palmer-Tomkinson's (whose claim to fame was her appearance on a security cam video blowing Prince Willy) column in the Sunday Times. The Lady somehow appeared topless in the Sun - the heading read "Top Toff Totty". After she complained about paying taxes and criticized poor people and the homeless, she became the "Twit Girl". In fact, nine out of ten Mirror readers voted her for "Twit Girl of the Year". I think she is nowdays someone's fashion muse...
The Lady was involved in many bizarre episodes, inc one with Ronaldo - as the Scotsman reported:
"....Last week Hervey was in a Monte Carlo night club after attending the Laureus World Sports Awards, whatever those are. One tabloid, under the headline "No go for Ronaldo", described how the Real Madrid striker asked Hervey to accompany him on an intimate trip to the casino. She refused demurely, saying she fancied an early night.
Another gossip column ran the titbit under the headline "Lady V scares ’em off". They claim she made a beeline for the football ace, but "as soon as the annoying socialite started stroking his head, the Brazilian star decided to get out of the penalty area". A third, fairly similar version ran under the surely libellous screamer: "Twit makes a pass at Ron," asking, "has she no shame?"
Based on these newspaper reports, the only thing I know for certain is that she was photographed wearing what passes for clothing in the celebrity world - a few sheer handkerchiefs held together by a prayer, with a bit of dental floss covering her nether regions, and a necklace that weighed considerably more than her entire body mass. Ronaldo was certainly there too, for they were pictured together. Though not together together, by any stretch of the imagination.
So maybe they shared a banquette and some banter. Beyond that, it’s anybody’s guess. Perhaps Hervey was waving a cigarette around and Ronaldo backed off to keep from singeing his head. Maybe they gave each other the rapacious once over, or maybe they sat and chatted about the glorious weather in Monte Carlo at this time of year. By the time this brief encounter wound its Chinese Whispering way back to the UK, you could choose the variation on the truth that best served your prejudices about Ms Hervey..."
Stroking Ronaldo's head? Is that code for something?
Sunday, February 19, 2006
A NY Times Fashion/Style section hack thinks "the grim expressionist ballet" in the Torino Olympics opening ceremony was "kitsch" - if the organizers had consulted any A Wintour/US Vogue affictionados, they could have included some of Lady Bunny's postmodern styling touches, to supply the requisite "flux"...
US Vogue's avant-gardness is unsurpassed - nobody else ever thought of printing an editorial with Naomi Campbell as a flamenco dancer, performing to the tune of a Mariachi (!!!) band...that was back in 1998...but then again, as Rowland would propably say, they all look "latin" anyway...
Hedi Slimane fans beware - UK experts claim that "...the Pete Doherty / little drummer boy jacket is deeply, deeply passe. Even Pete isn't wearing his any more. And while we're on the subject: pork pie hats are, if anything, even worse..."
Hey - what's wrong with men who want to look like "little drummer boys"?
dk thinks Sabrina Jales (left) and Tamiris Freitas are adorable - and they aren't even kittenish blondes ...
Saturday, February 18, 2006
Nope, C Kass wasn't the star at Madrid FW - Raica was...appearing in anything from "you won't see that in NYC" lingerie to 60s Ipanema girl / Jackie O fashions...Ronaldo, who is still scoring lots of goals for Real Madrid, was of course there, since Raica is now his fiancee - after all, Ronaldo's mom approves...
In the small pic, the 40 Grauss boss with Raica and Ana Bia...
Some semi-knowledgable high fashion characters are once again floating the idea of Daria W being the "new Romy Schneider"...but there may be a slight problem with this approach:
German speakers (and many others) remember Romy as a teenager, playing Empress Sissi - note Romy's popular teen image, as seen in these rare postcards...
If you think that teen Romy looked more like ...Natalia Vodianova, you are right - it's not just wise-ass FV, German Elle mentioned the resemblance when they featured Natalia, a year or so before high fashion discovered her...
Daria looks more like a 30 or 35 year old Romy, which is OK if you are trying to sell products to 35+ year olds, but I doubt that was the intention...
Romy appeared in dozens of forgettable movies in later years, but it is the Sissi image that still remains dominant
And don't forget that Z Macasova had her 15 min of fame coz someone thought she "resembled" 45 yo Carine Roitfeld (who UK papers claimed could pass as Iggy Pop's sister - some sinister folks claimed Iggy's brother would be more appropriate...)
As for what the avid Lady Bunny fans saw in Natalia when she arrived in NYC - I would rather not think about it...
Excellent Natalia V pic from French Marie Claire, when she was still slightly chubby...
Ana Bia and Jeisa from the NYC Lancome Hypnose party - any of the two would look better than "fresh face" Daria in the perfume campaign, not to mention that much less "image processing" would be required...Daria is OK (even if took seven or so years for NYC "pros" to figure out she had potential) but looks five or more years older than her age, and I doubt she will appeal to the MTV audience - which is why she was allegedly chosen...
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
SI Swimsuit 2006 stuff
As jb mentioned:
New in 06 - Carla Campbell, Pania Rose, Brooklyn Decker, Aline Nakashima, Yesica Toscanini (and Maria Sharapova as the celebrity model)
Missing from last year - Michelle Alves, Jessica van der Steen, Jessica White, Michelle Lombardo, Alicia Hall, Frankie Rayder, Shakara Ledard
Aline Nakashima was reportedly 25 yo in Sept 2005 (Sao Paulo media)- she really exploded in 2000 and has worked a lot in NYC since then. Yesica is 20 yo, from Argentina. Pania Rose is 20 yo, from Perth, Australia.
In general, all new faces look respectable, and like they belong in a smimsuit issue.
Ana Bia pics are better styled this year - there is an obvious effort to "glamourize" her and the results are quite good. Someone thought "cute Kathy Ireland, circa 1986" - makes her look less intimidating...she wears some transparent stuff, which allows those who don't know her work well to better appreciate her curves...
Tuesday, February 14, 2006
SI Swimsuit 2006
The new SI Swimsuit issue will be revealed in less than 24 hours - as the clock is ticking down, we go into flashback mode...
I remember when Yamila Diaz-Rahi got the cover - I was in Vegas for a geek trade show and since I was the only one reporting on her modeling work at the time, my site (and the server that hosted it) exploded...I found out that Yamila was the culprit a couple of days later, after getting angry calls from the server owner - I couldn't even see my own pages...fascinating faces on the SI Swimsuit issue cover generated lots of excitement back then. When I managed to finally get back into my site, a nasty bossy female character threatened to throw me out of the show PC area coz I was looking at pics of women in swimsuits...welcome to the USA !
You know something stinks when the fashionable crapsters who used to giggle about "women in swimsuits" suddenly get all fired up about swimsuit models - it took Carolyn Murphy (IMG bought the SI Swimsuit cover page for her last year) to get them excited...we'll soon know if SI sells out for the second year in a row...
Then and Now dept - anyone noticed Danita Angell in the NYC shows? That's Danita in the pic, from an Elite Models party, back in 96 or 97, soon after she was snatched from an Oregon highschool...the cute boy next to her is now the president of Trump Models...if you have any equally embarassing pics of Ivan Bart and the like, email me...
The NYT asks the question - "Would you buy Karl Lagerfeld brand products even though Karl hasn't designed the clothes himself?"
Xcuz me - why not, does Miuccia Prada design anything? She knows shit about fashion design, since she has a PhD in Political Science and the actual design is done by low-cost labor from UK Art Schools (which is why they get the "English housewife look" so right every time)
Beauty and the Beast (you decide which one is which - I won't comment) Marylin Manson - the character on the right- picked "21st century model" Lily Cole for his upcoming movie...IMG propably thinks Gemma W (or some Gemma-noid) will follow...I thought the Heigl girl looked great in "Bride of Chucky" - others liked the bride's looks a lot more...
Monday, February 13, 2006
Vanessa Hessler fans - rejoice ! Vanessa, along with other "young models" (don't fret, noone looks like Gemma W) will be among the hosts of the venerable San Remo music festival...which is televized by Rai TV - Feb 27/28 and March 2/3/4
You people are supposed to let me know about this stuff - Elena Santarelli is on the cover of Italian magazine Chi...good thing I can still spot worthy faces beneath the clutter of dozens of "Hollywood-ready" blondes hanging in newsstands...I assume from this that Elena will be co-presenting "Bravo Grazie" on Rai Due (free on Hotbird 13 East) in March...
Elena is linked with a dude who co-ownes Billionaire in Porto Cervo
What about Leo diCrapio? The Italians claim he is now with Israeli model Bar Rafaeli...
Things you see on TV - I spotted 19yo Izabel Goulart sandwiched between two generic blondes (one was probably Heidi K) holding a chocolaty heart-shaped thingie and talking to reporters - I guess a VS Valentine's day special...
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Carla Bruni had an important role to play in the Torino Olympics opening ceremony - she was the one carrying the Italian flag. Carla is a rather complicated personality and currently has a new career as a singer...
The annual US Vogue "shape issue" is not far away and I don't have to waste much brain energy to predict what you can expect from AW's rag...as usual, normal women (especially ones married to straight men) will be absent and the focus will be on various anorexics/bulimics contrasted to grotesque characters like Pam Anderson (yobo McQueen adores her) or compatible types with equally gigantic mammaries.
Thursday, February 09, 2006
"Things I would never have known if it wasn't for pro fashion journalism" dept...apparently, NYC FW "celebrated feminine passivity" - no word on what Amanda Moore has to say about that.
We also learn that "...If there is anything in the success of "Transamerica," "Brokeback Mountain," a spate of transsexual plot lines on cable television, drag kings in cabaret and movies like the new Miramax production "Kinky Boots," it seems to show that Americans are regaining their interest in cultural flux..." - I guess you can't have any serious "flux" without Lady Bunny, in hip NYC circles...
After much researh on NYC FW (10 min of my valuable time) I noticed some "portents and signs" - despite yet another season of Gemma-noids on the attack, ye olde NYC faithful refuse to be sidelined. Nothing can seemingly dislodge such legends as Tasha T, Trish Goff and Missy Rayder from "major" shows. As for the scary shit award - M Peres, A Dejanovic and H Bratton were tied for 1st place.
Men's fashions - the Milanese are unlikely to feel threatened by the designs shown, with looks which ranged from BluesBrothers extras to Angus Young wannabees. IMG once again failed to produce the massively popular Guinevere V S - who reportedly charmed the Parisienne during the Pirelli calendar launch... Where was Gisele?
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
Tatiana Dumenti, looking better than ever, next to her PC at home - I guess somewhere in Rio Grande do Sul.
Recent pic from her fotolog - I met her at a model contest in 1998, she was one of the winners of the Brazilian Model Look that year, as Tatiana Rossi, and actually finished third in the international final. She was 14 yo (more probably 13) at the time.
The small pics down right are from a 2003 Dumont campaign, where the casting dude selected her along with Patricia Barros for a wild shoot - some people know their business !!
Sunday, February 05, 2006
Security dude tells the WSJ about policing NYC FW...
Top prize for dodgy impersonation:
Nabbing imposters is a favorite sport among the guards, especially when the fashion wannabes attempt to pose as someone as recognizable as Vogue editor at large André Leon Talley. Mr. Talley is a towering black man known for his exuberant fashion statements. Mr. Yorio recalls how, about five years ago, a diminutive thirtysomething white woman tried to pass herself off as Andrea Leon Talley.
If you like collecting freebie bags, beware:
Guards contend with all sorts of tactics from poseurs, who present fake passes or pretend to be someone else. "We call them 'lobby fleas,' " Mr. Yorio says. Some are easily spotted because they flock to the freebies -- such as tote bags and samples of beauty products -- offered by show sponsors. The real fashion elite typically don't touch the stuff.
Andre Leon and his typical understated style
Why fashionable people profiling doesn't work:
While crowd control and safety are paramount concerns, 'profiling' for dangerous characters doesn't always work. That is because the industry's avant-garde can look a tad suspect: Their clothes may be tattered, eyeliner smeared and hair mussed and dirty. "Someone could come in with one shoe and half a hat and is supposed to be in the front row," Mr. Yorio says.
What happened to that JP Stern guy who used to do model reporting for Pagesix.com? Some years ago he decided to follow model Satya Arteau (good choice btw) around Europe during FW season - he discovered that Paris shows were attended by "flamboyant homosexuals" (!!) and other amazing facts. No such amorous types dare to show up in NYC...
Saturday, February 04, 2006
The Forbes mag list of "best paid models" is out...a certain nasty character, who enjoyed busting my balls in the past, claimed that the guy responsible for the ranking is Ivan Bart's boyfriend...can't really tell, probably more NYC bitchiness...the list is always IMG-friendly, and totally different from similar UK lists, but what do you expect - quality journalism? Yes, you guessed right - Gisele is the top earner...
Yes folks, it's NYC FW time, and every crapster gets to talk about what it takes to join the elite circle of hip faces adored by Marsh, Meisel and Co. Ivan Bart of course also has a comment - he actually claims that his models "fit" the clothes !! A voguey character reveals that AW missed the mark when she thought her fave faces may get popular a year ago...
In September 2004, Vogue — the fashion industry's bible — put nine familiar-but-not-famous models on its cover and heralded the return of the fashion model.
Unfortunately, says Kate Armenta, the magazine's sittings editor, the theory didn't prove true.
"The tide is really toward the celebrity culture right now. Models have taken on a different role. ... Gisele is well known but she's known more for Victoria's Secret or dating Leonardo DiCaprio, not by what ad campaigns she's been in," she says.
Nian Fish, creative director and senior vice president at KCD, which produces shows for top fashion houses, says that's kept new talent from being developed into the next generation of fashion stars.
"It's like how reality television takes away from actors, celebrities take away from models," she says.
Runway regulars Caroline Trentini and Jessica Stam are pretty successful by industry standards but most average Joes would never recognize them on the street.
Contrary to popular belief, not all models are carted around in limos while wearing chic dresses and high heels. Outside the Bryant Park tents where many of Fashion Week's runway shows are held, it's a common sight to see pretty young things smoking cigarettes in jeans and sneakers looking remarkably unremarkable as they try to hail a cab to beat the audience to the next show.
To achieve top-tier status — the ones who are chauffeured from show to show while carrying handbags that cost more than startup models' monthly rent — you need more than a pretty face.
Fish ticks off what matters more:
• Bone structure.
• Shape of head in proportion to body. (The classic fashion illustration of a small head and long body is indeed what the industry looks for.)
• How she looks in clothes.
• Her "hunger."
"There's definitely work to this," Fish says. "Maybe you're not building a log cabin, but there's a lot of psychological wear and tear. They'll hear, `You lost weight,' or `You gained weight.' And you can't read the stares (of) the casting directors. All that, coupled with the tremendously long hours, which can be 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. if she's one of the working girls of the season."
Some models develop the passion — and, maybe even more importantly, confidence — after a special moment on the runway or an ego boost from one top designer or photographer who lights the spark for "the wildfire effect," Fish says.
Before that, though, aspiring models have to find an agency willing to bring them to the attention of casting directors. They're the ones who can see up to 500 models during the weeding-out process, out of which a handful make it to a session with the designers and creative directors.
"A certain number of girls will start in New York City and get the good shows. The shows go immediately online. Then one or two models will start getting buzz, whether they do Marc (Jacobs), Calvin (Klein) or Karl (Lagerfeld), then they go on to a cool show in Milan and then THE show in Paris. ...Daria (Werbowy) was the most recent wildfire," Fish says.
Armenta from Vogue says Werbowy came at the right time. "I'd seen pictures and heard of her, but when (Steven) Meisel shot her for Prada, it blew her out of the water. She was unique. She had such presence. She's so gorgeous and unique but not in an off-putting way."
Occasionally, it's the shy girl who perseveres. Fish predicts Heather Bratton, who did the Chanel, Chloe and Burberry Prorsum shows last season and was then shot by Meisel for Italian Vogue, will have "an amazing season."
Meanwhile, Armenta has her eye on Snejana Onopka, who has been photographed for American Vogue a few times since her turn on the Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Chanel runways last fall.
The models not only have to look good in clothes but also "fit" them, says Ivan Bart, senior vice president of IMG Models, which represents Werbowy, Bundchen, Moss and Jacquetta Wheeler.
Again using Werbowy, now the spokesmodel for Lancome, as the example, Bart notes that she had the hippie-chic look when everything coming down the runway had a bohemian style.
"The main thing is the designers are always looking for the woman who best suits the collection, but, that being said, they always want a sure thing," he says. "The bottom line through all of it is selling clothes."
It makes sense that designers first look at models with a paper trail of fashion advertisements because practice makes perfect, Bart says, just like with any craft.
And it pays to be nice and easygoing. It's hard for anyone — including designers, casting directors, photographers, the audience and consumers — not to like an approachable, friendly person, Bart says.
"Taking fashion shows out of the equation, when you're booked for a five-day trip on a remote location for a shoot, would a photographer, stylist, etc., want to be with you? You have to connect to people," he says. "You can't be too demanding or diva-ish anymore, not in 2006. ... If you're not in the best form and giving and excited to be here, there are a lot of other people who are happy to do your job."
Typical load of rubbish from the local AW cronies - KCD btw is one of the big NYC fashion PR firms, the types who organize the "major" shows (ie brands that are good Conde Nast advertisers) and sell the various weirdos to people like Meisel - who is too busy to do model castings. The top KCD people are Meisel's old buddies from the 70s - along with Betak and a couple of others, they run a mafia-like system which guarantees that their choices are the only ones who get attention. Outsiders - like photographers who don't work with them or won't take orders and promote whatever weirdo is destined to be hip next season are blackballed - and get regularly trashed by the cabal's lackeys in model discussion forums...
The bottom line is that if you look normal, have no obvious defect (asymmetric jaw, head too big for the rest of the body, exaggerated face features, unstable gait, etc) you stand no chance in high fashion. Even if you are very thin and quirky-looking and your idol is Kate Moss, the minute the Ivan Barts discover that "average Joe" thinks you are fascinating, you are thrown out - that's what happened to Cintia Dicker. AW's lackeys don't like models who actually appeal to people - and that's the plain truth. The rest, like the article above, is just crap talk to confuse the clueless.
Why hate the "fascinating" models, pretty or not?
It's simple - if you are running a "closed market", where various nobodies are guaranteed a good income if they participate in a quota-based system and agree to promote a uniformly low-quality product (at a high price), what is your biggest fear? That someone may actually try to sell a product that is more appealing than the usual crappy merchandise, thus introducing competition and uncertainity - not the sort of thing that a micromanaging mature alpha female would like...
And what about Gisele, you may ask - isn't she conventionally glam? A phoney system like this needs only one (maybe two at most) classic glam face at the top, to fool the public and get income from the more traditional markets, like lingerie. Have you noticed that IMG doesn't have any other glam Brazilians in its top echelon -and that Rowland, DNA and the rest haven't even tried to promote any Gisele "lookalikes"?
Why is it OK to have so many Gemma-noids, etc - but no Gisele types? Because that would dilute the value of IMG's prime product - more evidence for you that the game is rigged...
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
What about Elie Saab's show? The vogueys will continue to trash him every chance they get - AW won't easily forget the "Halle Berry Oscars gown" debacle - or that he is a real threat to major Conde Nast advertisers - and always makes sure her pathetic lackeys post negative reviews...as for the models, those who watched the Saab weekend special on FTV probably noticed that his mods used to look entirely different in past years...he now uses "standard issue" NYC hip names, like everyone else. Aside from Ai Tominaga, Michele Alves, Rianne, Hana, and maybe Zelyaeva, the rest don't really belong in a (real) Couture show...they simply look wrong in the clothes.
Sao Paulo FW was a real stinker - most top names didn't bother to even show up. If the FW casting director wanted to make the event resemble a genuine "high fashion" FW, he succeeded. It was just as boring.
I bet Katie didn't take any drugs for at least a week, since she knew she had to visit a police station for questioning - and what was that white powder anyway?