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Saturday, July 08, 2006

Art, Postmodernism, Warholites and the High Fashion cabal - II

A few more details on KCD - probably the most influencial fashion PR people in NYC, along with Kevin Krier and Alex de Betak (Audray Marnay's husband)

After Duka died of AIDS in 1989 and Keeble of breast cancer in 1990, Paul Cavaco "inherited" the company - today it is supposedly run by Edwin Filipowski and Julie Mannion. KCD was the first NYC fashion PR firm to open an overseas office - they followed Tom Ford in his invasion of the Paris fashion biz, back in 2000. You may remember that after AW and the Newhouses got rid of the president of Conde Nast France, Gardner Bellanger, and the Paris Vogue editrix, Juliet Buck, Tom Ford had his long-time (and Testino's) assistant, Carine Roitfeld, installed as editrix at Paris Vogue. He also engineered a major shift in Parisian fashion aesthetics by replacing Natalia Semanova in the Yves Saint Laurent Beaute Opium fragrance campaign by a grotesquely retouched Karen Elson, in one of the most hideous campaigns in history. By pure coincidence, KCD's Meisel did the shooting - and Tom Ford was of course represented by KCD.

As for their clients (2003 info) - "...KCD's client list includes YSL, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Versace, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Vogue magazine and Cartier...produces the fashion shows of many of the best designers, plans parties such as Valentino's 40th anniversary (at which Gwyneth Paltrow and Tom Hanks were guests), and organizes the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards, the fashion industry's equivalent of the Academy Awards...they produced the shows for Alexander McQueen, Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Chloe, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Ralph Lauren, Sean John, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent and hot young designer Zac Posen. In Paris, the company also threw a party for about 800 people for designer Helmut Lang...at the Yves Saint Laurent show, always the last big show of Paris fashion week and held in the evening at the Rodin Museum, Ed Filipowski escorted France's first lady, Bernadette Chirac backstage to meet designer Tom Ford and then to her front-row seat..."

Andy Warhol's original swindle, Interview mag, is also a client...

After Tom Ford left Gucci Group, it was revealed that YSL, including the previously profitable Beaute business, did miserably under his helm and that Gucci Group finances were used to prop up some of AW's proteges - and KCD clients - such as McQueen...

As for Krier - some of the same names pop up, so there are complex inter-relationships between NYC fashion PR types, or perhaps the same person is pulling the strings behind all of them...

(2001 info) - Krier was an actor before he started Kevin Krier & Associates, a special events production company that stages fashion shows as well as events such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America's awards. When producing a runway show, Krier oversees the selection of music, models, theme and venue--just about everything but the clothes.
Krier arrived in New York in 1981, after touring the regional theater circuit as an actor. His first show was for designer Bill Robinson, and he graduated to working for designers including legends Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent...Krier credits his success to his highly efficient staff of 10, and the opportunity to work with visionary fashion designers. "I can learn from Tom [Ford, Gucci's creative director] every minute. I've had some great experiences with young designers like Todd Oldham."...


IMG has bought nearly everything lately, so their mods are favored in the events they control - "...IMG currently owns and operates a number of the world’s most important fashion events under the IMG FASHION business including Olympus Fashion Week (New York), Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios (Los Angeles), Fashion Fringe (London), and the Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami presented by LYCRA® (Miami). IMG has associations with other fashion weeks around the world and has previously produced Lakme India Fashion Week...IMG has signed an agreement to acquire Australian Fashion Innovators (AFI) and with it the region's premier fashion event, Mercedes Australian Fashion Week..."

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