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Wednesday, March 08, 2006

Yes, there was a Paris FW...news coverage was at an all-time low, and few people care anymore...

The semi-official UK Conde Nast mouthpiece details the extent of the alpha female's micromanagement of everything in the fashion biz - it should help you understand why certain nobodies suddenly get lots of hype:

Let's see if you can figure out the clues to why "Englishness" will be hip next season...



"....Years ago, during some of John Galliano's darkest hours in Paris, when money was drying up and the showing of his collection was unlikely, Wintour rustled up a backer and, subsequently, championed his debut as the new "star" of Louis Vuitton Mo√ęt Hennessy - first at Givenchy, and then at Christian Dior (both of which are owned by the group).

She has similarly boosted the careers of Michael Kors, who was also the former creative director of Celine, and Marc Jacobs, New York's design darling, and the current name behind Louis Vuitton. Proenza Schouler, Trovata, Derek Lam, Behnaz Sarafpour, Tuleh and Rick Owens have also made Wintour's hot list.

In 2003, her passion and networking zeal led to the creation of the Council of Fashion Designers of America-Vogue Fashion Fund, which provides an annual award of $200,000 - together with professional mentoring and editorial coverage in Vogue - to the best emerging young label, chosen by a panel of industry experts. Proenza Schouler won in 2004, with Cloak and Habitual as runners-up, and Trovata won last year, with Derek Lam and Thom Browne in the runner-up spots.

Some of the names may be unknown here - for the present - but, with the endorsement of a woman as powerful as Wintour, that will not be the case for long. In their winning year, Proenza Schouler were taken on by 100 new stockists, with the help of their mentor, Rose Marie Bravo, the chief executive of Burberry..."

Burberry probably got a lot of free coverage in return - all this may be illegal in other business sectors, ie having a virtual monopoly which favors certain business interests and engages in constant manipulation of a supposedly "free" marketplace, but the NYC elected officials (who are often seen enjoying themselves in CN - hosted parties) obviously don't agree...

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