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Friday, September 30, 2005

C Kass collapses in Prada backstage

The protest during the Prada show was very noisy...

ESTONIAN supermodel Carmen Kass fainted backstage during the Prada show in Milan this week, causing a kerfuffle and leading some to speculate that she might be expecting a little pawn from her chess-master beau, Eric Lobron. The sensitive guys at Women, who represent Kass, were less than concerned when we called. "I've got no comment on that," said Peter Cedeno. "We don't know about it, and it's none of your business," barked senior booker John Gnerre. Kass' tumble wasn't the only extra action at the show. PETA Europe campaigner Sebastian Coesch leapt on the runway with a banner that read, "Fur Kills," and proceeded to shout about murdering animals — causing Milla Jovovich and others in the audience to shift nervously in their seats. Coesch was taken away and held in jail overnight. Says PETA Vice President Dan Matthews, "If Carmen had seen an animal skinned alive, she would have passed out a lot quicker."

As for the size 12 "new S Meisel fave", the usual suspects are getting sarcastic once again - "If you don't like size zero, then we'll give you a bloated Sophie Dahl type".
Sophie btw appeared just after the 90s "heroin chic" debacle, as the "curvy chick" answer to Kate Moss anorexics...the bottom line is that you'll never see normal feminine women from these assholes.

Wednesday, September 28, 2005

Valentino erupts

After blasting the Hilton family, Valentino set his sights on some other celebs:

Hollywood actresses Julia Roberts and Cameron Diaz are like "bag ladies" compared with glamorous stars of the past, fashion designer Valentino has told a German newspaper.
The designer said: "Today you see Julia Roberts and Cameron Diaz running around looking unkempt in jogging trousers, they look like bag ladies, like homeless people. In the past you never saw that."
"In the past, actresses had to commit in their contracts to appear in public like stars when they left their homes," the Italian told De Zeit newspaper.

Valentino dresses the anorgasmic Gwyneth Paltrow, much favored by Vogue, and was always a big fan of the equally glamorous Kate Moss.

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Krizia's Mariuccia Mandelli blasts Cruella Wintour and US Vogue - R Cavalli and S Gabbana follow...

It was about bleeping time, I say - too bad the usual suspects are once more casting NYC ho-hum models to showcase Italian fashions...

"We must rebel - enough with US Vogue", the magazine that ignores Italian designers, says Mariuccia. Among US Vogue's list of "important designers", Prada is the only Italian (and not even a designer). Also, US Vogue "favors the French" while the shortened Milan show calendar (90 shows in 5 days) only benefits "tyrranical queen" AW who wants to see the "eight shows that count" and nothing else.

Even R Cavalli and Stefano Gabbana ("the list is of no real significance") criticised AW and her faves - Roberto said that the "best designer" list was an attempt to "provide some oxygen for dead brands" - and some other nasty stuff.

He can display his displeasure better by dropping IMG and other farsical AW-approved models from his campaigns...

Milano - «Bisogna ribellarsi. Basta con «Vogue Usa» che dà le pagelle e ignora gli stilisti italiani. La moda siano noi, facciamoci sentire». Si alza il sipario della settimana della moda milanese, e il clima è teso. Mariuccia Mandelli, in arte Krizia, si dice "profondamente indignata" per la lista pubblicata da Vogue America, con i "magnifici sette" stilisti, considerati i soli capaci di dare un futuro alla moda. Tra gli italiani, si salva Prada, mentre tutte le altre grandi griffe sono ignorate. «Eppure noi - spiega Krizia - abbiamo fatto non solo la storia del "made in Italy" ma siamo tuttora fra i creativi di maggior successo al mondo». Con Krizia, si schiera Ferrè che dice: «Dobbiamo fare squadra per dare forza alla moda italiana».

Nella foto di gruppo, tracciata dalla rivista guidata dalla potente direttrice Anna Wintour, si parla di Stefano Pilati, l´italiano che disegna per Yves Saint Laurent. Seguono i nomi di Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Olivier Theyskens (che firma la linea Rochas), Nicolas Guesquiere (lavora per Balenciaga) e Alber Elbaz (impegnato da Lanvin). «Una lista così è una provocazione, è il segno dello strapotere di Anna Wintour ai danni della moda italiana - spiega Krizia - ecco perché bisogna elaborare una strategia comune in difesa del "made in Italy"». Krizia un piano ce l´ha già: lei diserterà la cena promossa a Milano dalla Wintour per la raccolta fondi destinata ai giovani talenti. E invita i suoi colleghi a fare altrettanto. Niente cena ma anche "stop alla pubblicità su Vogue America". «Io lo faccio da anni - dice - e sono felice». Krizia, però, ricorda che questa storia deve fare riflettere: «Qualcosa non va nel nostro sistema, grazie anche alle politiche ottuse di chi dovrebbe difenderci e invece favorisce i francesi». La frecciata è diretta alla Camera della moda che ha stretto un accordo con i colleghi francesi, "tutt´altro che favorevole per noi". Non solo. Ma il calendario delle sfilate (90 in 5 giorni) sarebbe un regalo ad Anna Wintour che, si dice, vuol stare pochi giorni a Milano e vedere solo le otto sfilate che contano.

AW also had the nerve to export her payola swindle - also known as Conde Nast "marketing support" - to Italy, by establishing a "Fashion Fund" to "help new Italian designers", similar to the scheme that benefits her cronies in the USA.

Saturday, September 24, 2005

Horse drug Kate?

...hey, this is more fun that photos of Andre Leon T in lederhosen...the Mirror is rolling...and the big ones will drop tomorrow, since Sunday is the day for major exposes.

"KATE Moss turned into a "mad woman" after taking a potentially lethal cocktail of drugs including a horse tranquilliser, it was revealed last night.
She snorted line after line of cocaine and ketamine - known as Special K in drugs circles - after a night out at a London club.
She said: "We were at a party at a lovely flat by the Thames. Kate used a credit card to cut up the powder then hoovered hers up first. She was quite greedy. She was like a machine.
"Then she wiped her nose and started jumping around the room like a mad woman. She was going on about Special K, saying how great it was."
Ketamine has killed several users.
Kate, who has publicly apologised for her drug taking, is due to check into a rehab clinic today.
...Kate, 31, also kept a secret stash of cocaine in an antique silver pendant around her neck - so she was never without a "hit" of the class A drug.
She was said to be "like a machine" as she snorted line after line of coke and Special K during a debauched night at a plush apartment in London.
A former model who witnessed the wild bender said she was "amazed" at the amount of drugs Kate got through.
She also claimed the catwalk queen - exposed as a cocaine user by the Mirror last week - invited her for a threesome with another man.
The source - who does not want to be named - ended up at the flat after meeting associates of Kate at West End club Kabaret in 2000.
She said: "My friend and I bumped into a couple of other people we knew at the club and someone said there was a party going on at his flat and asked if we would like to come back.
"When we arrived, Kate was already there in the kitchen with two other people. She was wearing a white vest and black jeans.
"She seemed quite hyper. She was moving her jaw in a weird way and her eyes were huge. I could tell straight away that she was on something.
"She was out of it and seemed really wired. She didn't look anything like she does when she is modelling. Her face was sweaty and her eyes were rolling. She was friendly and offered us a drink. She was drinking neat vodka with ice.
"I guess there were around six other people in the apartment when I was there, but I didn't know who they were.
"While we were in the kitchen, Kate got a white, over-sized dinner plate and put it under the grill to heat it up. I asked her what she was doing and she said, 'It's for the Special K'. I knew that meant ketamine.
"Once the plate was warm enough, she took it from under the grill, opened a packet up and poured this white powder on to the plate.
"She was saying how the warm plate helped fluff up the ketamine and made it easier to snort. She said it was what you do with Special K.
"Then she took control. She used a credit card to cut up the powder and then they snorted it with a straw. She definitely knew what she was doing. She hoovered hers up first. She was quite greedy about it. She was like a machine.
"Once she had snorted the line, she wiped her nose and started jumping around the room like a mad woman. She wouldn't stop talking. She was going on about Special K, saying how great it was. She said she had done a lot of it.
"She also said it was a great drug to mix with cocaine but said you had to be careful, because if you had too much you could hallucinate.
"She said she once did too much ketamine and started tripping out. She said she started seeing things and it scared her.
"After 10 minutes, we moved into the lounge. Kate did a line of coke off the table. I was amazed she was doing coke so soon after the ketamine.
"She couldn't stop talking and was also chain smoking. She was acting quite big-headed, and boasting about how much drugs she could do.
"Then she started dancing on her own in the room. She was gurning and her eyes were rolling.
"After a bit, she said, 'Okay, who's up for another line of K?' I couldn't believe it. The others said no, but she went back to the kitchen.
"I could see them heating up the plate again and snorting more ketamine. She came back into the lounge even more wired than before."
Once back in the living room, things turned even seedier as Kate began boasting about her sex life.
"She started talking about sex," said the source. "I was quite shocked by the things she was saying but she didn't seem to care.
"While all this was going on, she kept getting her own stash of cocaine out of a pendant. It was attached to a silver chain, about two inches long. It was like a miniature flask, with a spoon attached to the inside of the lid. She kept unscrewing the top, scooping some coke out and snorting it off the spoon.
"She was alternating between the pendant, the coke on the lounge table and the ketamine in the kitchen. I would guess I saw her snorting at least eight or nine lines of ketamine during the night."
The model - who has since quit the industry to raise her young son - says she was stunned when Kate made a pass at her. "She tried it on with me," she said. "She kept putting her hand on my leg and at one point tried to kiss me. I just told her I wasn't into that type of thing. Then she pointed to the bedroom and said, 'Do you want to come in there for some fun?' I said, 'No thanks'.
"Then she moved on to another girl, and they started kissing with tongues. I was really shocked.
"I'd never experienced a night like that one - and certainly haven't since."..."

Friday, September 23, 2005

I've been a snorty girl...

...Katie issued a statement, but she won't go on camera to tell her story - Rimmel say they now feel a lot better and they'll stop sounding pissed and making statements showing "concern"...

Menwhile, Potty Pete was seen snogging and fondling with a 16 yo girl - or so the Sun insists...
We also learn that "...Doherty also launched into a savage verbal assault on ex-lover Kate Moss.
Dane Skelton said the singer called Kate a “cokehead slut”.
He added: “He said the drug allegations were true. He also said she slept around and was a slut.”
Crazed Doherty caused havoc on a flight back from his drug-fuelled trip to Ibiza, it emerged yesterday.
He swigged vodka, abused fellow passengers and even tried to light a cigarette.
During the trip he allegedly smashed up a villa, causing £50,000 damage

Just in - in an interview with Radio Tay, in Scotland, where his band is touring, Doherty said: "A lot of people basically are obsessed with the missus and I don't know really ... she's just a bird from South London."

In other news - Italians and Milan FW visitors will probably have to go on cocaine to survive the new FW show schedule, which was adopted solely to please Cruella Wintour...who claims she only bothers to visit Milan for Miuccia Prada's creations.

Thursday, September 22, 2005

The beautiful brunette in the new Moët & Chandon ads ("Always travel with a chauffeur") is Fernanda Motta - excellent pic, showcasing the mod's body

Scientologists offered to help Katie - "...Scientologists will be urging Moss to undergo treatment with Narconon, a drug treatment program with strong links to Scientology."

Meanwhile, is offering odds on whether gamine model Kate Moss will be arrested and so serve some time in a British cop shop. Betmaker man Tim Williams said that he expected a "lot of fashionistas" to wager on the possibility.
The odds are 4/5 that she will be arrested, according to Betmaker. But it's also offering odds of 19/20 that she won't be arrested.

Finally, Katie issued a "statement" through her model agency, Storm...

"I take full responsibility for my actions.
"I also accept that there are various personal issues that I need to address and have started taking the difficult, yet necessary, steps to resolve them."
"I want to apologise to all of the people I have let down because of my behaviour which has reflected badly on my family, friends, co-workers, business associates and others."
"I am trying to be positive, and the support and love I have received are invaluable."

Other major news - voguey "It girl" Tara P-T is still around - "...Posh totty Tara Palmer-Tomkinson has told how she buys Playboy and likes to skip the articles to get straight to the sexy pictures.
The saucy socialite admits she picks up the glamour mag if it features a gorgeous woman on the cover

Kate a crackhead?

Whoa !!! Gloria Vanderbilt drops Katie too !! I wonder if someone will call IMG NYC about this...that leaves a hole in the campaign's IMG model lineup - will Gemma W look good as an oversexed 70s party girl?

Denim firm Gloria Vanderbilt boss Jack Gross said: "We would have second thoughts about using Kate Moss again. We weren't aware of any issues with Kate prior to this campaign."

No defiant stance together with Sadie either...

Kate, who has has yet to speak about the Mirror's revelations, last night failed to show up for friend Sadie Frost's lingerie show at the London Fashion Week.
An insider said: "There was a huge buzz over whether Kate would appear. There was disappointment when she didn't."

The Sun says "Kate is on crack" as the paper's intrepid reporters discover cocaine in nearly every London Fashion Week show and party toilet - gee, I wonder why Tom Ford once said that he wouldn't give up the London lifestyle for anything else...

Only Rimmel and Dior are holding out...

The situation Wednesday evening - "...A spokeswoman for Mr Cavalli said that he was furious about reports that his company was prepared to stand by the model dubbed “Cocaine Kate” by tabloid newspapers. “He is very heated up about this because he is totally against drugs,” she said. Asked whether he would use her again, she responded: “I don’t think so. Not at the moment. He certainly had no clue that there was a problem. She is not in the plans this year, but that was decided before all of this.”...H. Stern, the New York jeweller which had described Moss as “the best representation of the H. Stern woman”, said that it did not approve of her actions. It said that Moss was not their spokeswoman, but “the face of a short campaign”...Fashion magazines said that they would continue to print advertisements featuring the supermodel, but French Vogue, which Moss guest-edited, said that it was keeping an eye on the coverage. “We are concerned,” a spokeswoman said..."

Concerned my ass - if AW wants Roitfeld's head on a platter, after Carine put her Iliad-reading daughter Bee next to "two clowns engaged in cunnilingus" in her rag, she now can make her move...Roitfeld is more concerned about her job.
As for H. Stern, the original press release - in Brasil anyway - stated that Kate was selected because she WASN'T the typical H. Stern customer, and they were trying to buy some coolness...

Burberry dropped her from autumn project

Chanel no plans to use her after October

Dior refused to comment

Hennes & Mauritz fired her from forthcoming campaign

H. Stern no plans to use her after December

Rimmel contract will continue until 2007

Roberto Cavalli no plans to use her for at least a year

And of course, nobody gives a shit about Gloria Vanderbilt and their IMG greats...

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Chanel follows...Burberry too

"Chanel announced this afternoon that Moss would not represent its Coco Mademoiselle fragrance once her current contract expires in October. Later, Burberry said it was cancelling a planned advertising campaign.
Chanel, which was rumoured to be seeking a younger woman to replace Moss, 31, before renewing her contract earlier this year, said the decision had nothing to do with recent tabloid allegations of cocaine abuse.
"Kate Moss has a contract until the end of October," said Julie Le Blevec, a spokeswoman for the French couturier. "The contract was always going to end in October."
Moss is reported to earn £750,000 a year from her role as the face of Coco Mademoiselle, a contract she won in 2002. The current poster campaign shows her wearing nothing but the perfume, a string of pearls and a black bowler hat

This certainly puts a lot of pressure on Dior - as for Dior Homme, the Hedi dude loves Potty Pete instead, but hardly anyone cares.

Nobody sems to have noticed that the Gloria Vanderbilt people also used Katie in a 70s themed campaign with Gisele and Daria - tells you how successful the "top" IMG package was. I guess they need to issue a statement terminating Katie if they want to get any publicity...

As to who the future Katie will be - Mary-Kate Olsen signed with Calvin Klein, she has a drug addiction and eating disorders history, so she certainly qualifies...

Update: Burberry announced that it too would be ending its association with the model, who has worked with the company since 1998 and has appeared in nine out of its last 16 campaigns.
"At the current time we had one project scheduled with Kate for this autumn and in the circumstances both Kate and Burberry have mutually agreed that it is inappropriate to go ahead," a spokeswoman for the company said in a statement.
"Kate has always been a fantastic model and highly professional for Burberry. We are saddened by her current circumstances and hope she overcomes her problems as soon as possible. We wish Kate all the best."

Cocaine is running around my brain...

Another good reason to stay away from snorting coke - embarassing singing performances in public:

"...The Mirror today reveals how Kate snorted cocaine in front of teenagers in Ibiza last month.
A friend of the model said: "She was out of her head on it and didn't blink an eyelid taking lines in front of the kids.
"There was a big bash at Jade Jagger's house and she was holding court and chopping out up to six lines of coke for her friends at breakfast.
"She was in a bad way during the whole holiday. She would put on expensive designer dresses in front of everyone before deciding she didn't like them and ripping them off like a five-year-old.
"Up close, her cover-looks were nowhere to be seen. She looked tired and haggard and her skin was blotchy.
"At one point she jumped up and down when high on cocaine and sang, 'My mum works in McDonald's'

Meanwhile, Naomi C went to Colombia - to protest against "women trafficking"?

UK Vogue lampoons the deprived and unglamorous

UK Vogue with the help of Katie-loving Mario Testino, decided to do a sarcastic shoot featuring characters from a BBC UK TV series which is poking fun at the social class known in the UK as "chavs". The editrix thought it would be good fun to contrast the deprived, who frequent style-challenged Community centres and bargain department stores, with the "Vogue world":

Yeah but ... chav tracksuits are in Vogue (The Scotsman, June 4 2005)

YES but no but why? The fashion bible Vogue has this month treated the queen of "chav", Little Britain's Vicky Pollard, to a full-scale celebrity photoshoot taken by the esteemed photographer Mario Testino...
Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman said: "The notion of pairing the glamour of Mario's photographs with the harsh comedy of Little Britain was irresistible.
"Right from the start I was sure we needed to have a model in the pictures to contrast the Little Britain characters and the traditional Vogue world."
Instead of the usually glamorous locations, the shoot was taken in a west London community centre and a Sainsbury's car park.
Making her Vogue debut did not stop Pollard (Lucas) coming out with her trademark cheek. She told Testino, who is more used to snapping the likes of Madonna and Kate Moss, during the shoot: "Yeah but, no but, yeah but, shurr'up Testino! "Is that camera from Boots, yeah?...

A typical chav looks like a cross between Eminem and David Beckham, while a chavette ranges from a Kate Moss to a Victoria Beckham - sans high fashions. Katie's birthplace, Croydon, is said to be "chavette infested", with the typical chavettes sporting the "Croydon face lift" hairstyle.
Chavs are also infamous for wearing Burberry plaid hats and other accessories - usually counterfeits..."Imitation is the sincerest form of annoying the fashionistas...Burberry blames chavs for its disappointing sales...." Now you know why people give you strange looks when you wear Burberry plaid during your visit to the UK...

Food for thought - for Gisele:

Tyra Banks is so fed up with people thinking her breasts are fake, she takes off her bra on "The Tyra Banks Show" today and has a plastic surgeon examine her mammoth mammaries. The supermodel, who tells the upcoming Parade magazine she's up to 150 pounds, keeps her shirt on during the entire TV segment. The lucky surgeon confirms that yes, her lovely bosom is free of implants and totally real. Justifying the ratings stunt, Banks explained, "It's very frustrating for me to have to live my career with people thinking that."

Gis was in Barcelona last week for the local FW - she lasted only a season as the face of St. John, with Angelina Jolie replacing her. Angelina will get a percentage of sales - not a fixed fee.

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

H&M drops Kate

It was obvious they were having second thoughts - they spend a lot of money on the upcoming campaign, slated for launch on November 10th, but they finally decided the negative publicity was going to be more costly...

"...In a statement the chain said: "H&M will cancel the planned advertising campaign with model Kate Moss.
"H&M is strongly against drugs and for many years has actively supported the drug preventing organisation Mentor Foundation.
"After having evaluated the situation, H&M has decided that a campaign with Kate Moss is inconsistent with H&M's clear dissociation of drugs."

Rimmel (Coty) is more supportive - "...Coty, the cosmetics giant, said that it would honour the remainder of its three-year contract with the model, who is the face of its make-up brand Rimmel..."

The police may finally investigate - "...Her troubles deepened last night after it emerged the Metropolitan Police is to investigate her alleged cocaine abuse.
Assistant Commissioner Tarique Ghaffur has asked officers from the Specialist Crime Directorate to “review the matter”. A spokeswoman said: “He has asked officers to look at the reports highlighted in a national newspaper
.” ..."

Monday, September 19, 2005

The "Cocaine Kate" affair is not over yet - the Mirror story finally appeared on most mainstream media over the weekend, after Kate effectively recognised that the allegations were true by apologising to H&M executives. Today's London Times piece shows that an apology may not be enough to solve Katie's problems...
"...After last week’s allegations that Moss was filmed taking cocaine, Hennes and Mauritz, the Swedish clothing chain, said that it would be standing by the 31-year-old model.
But last night, after learning of newspaper allegations concerning drug-taking and three-in-a-bed sex, the company said it now wanted to talk to her about the new claims.
H&M, which hired Ms Moss to be the “face” for its forthcoming campaign, said that prominent coverage of her wild lifestyle could jeopardise its contract with her. A spokeswoman for the company said the contract with Moss could now be in danger of being terminated.
“This (coverage) leads to reflection for us,” she said, as two Sunday newspapers dubbed the model “Cocaine Kate

After H&M, Burberry is also considering dropping her - "...Burberry, the British clothing label that has used her in five of its past six campaigns, is now thought to be looking at Sienna Miller, Jude Law’s girlfriend..."

Kate thinks signing "good girl" clauses may be a way out - "...KATE MOSS has said she is ready to sign “good behaviour” contracts with fashion companies pledging a drug-free lifestyle after she was pictured apparently snorting cocaine in a London recording studio...Experts say the worst scenario for Moss is a “domino effect” where one big company cancels a contract and others follow. One fashion insider said: “One of these companies might easily decide Kate is bringing their products into disrepute and refuse to use her any more. The worry for her then is whether others would follow.”..."

More nasty stories will undoubtedly crop up - the UK media sees no need to "protect" her...

"...It emerged over the weekend that Moss is known as The Conjuror by friends because she is alleged to be so adept and quick-handed at crushing and forming lines of cocaine and then snorting the drug...Rebecca White, the fashion PA who has known Moss since 1998, told the newspaper: “We have partied together more than 60 times over the years in New York, Barcelona and London and not once have I seen her when she wasn’t doing drugs or booze.”...It is alleged that Moss, 31, was high on the class A drug while attending a charity dinner for the Nelson Mandela Children's Fund in Barcelona..."

And the predictable reason for her troubles - "...Moss is alleged to have started taking cocaine because she was worried about getting fat..."

Conde Nast is out on a limb, with UK Vogue and Paris Vogue providing -exclusively- plenty of visibility for her. Other voguey greats escaped media scrutiny in the past, as in the case of Karen Elson, whose boyfriend, a heir of the Rothschild family, died from a drug overdose after a party in NYC - "...And who is this Karen Elson, who was recently married by a shaman to White Stripes front man Jack White in a canoe in Brazil? The British model - nicknamed "Le Freak" because of her pale complexion and shaved eyebrows - was known in her home country for her wrenching battle with eating disorders. By 17, two years after her career started, she had been hospitalized with bulimia and anorexia. She also has a penchant for lost souls: In 2000, her former moneybags beau Raphael de Rothschild died of a heroin overdose at a party on 10th Ave. "His death was the biggest wakeup call I ever had," she later said..."

In fact, she was in the same party...

Some already are asking UK police to investigate - "...Ann Widdecombe, the former Tory Home Office minister, said: “It’s very concerning that the police don’t seem to be taking action. It sends out a message that if you are rich enough, you can do what the devil you like. The companies who employ her should consider her position.”..."

The police said that they need someone to file a complaint...

Those who follow the Blog know what I think about Kate Moss, but I'll try to put everything in a nutshell for all the rest...
Kate was popular in the fashion world in the early and mid-90s for a number of reasons - the main one was that the early 90s turned into an era of grunge and teenage rebellion. Of course, it was a fake marketing-driven rebellion, promoted solely for the benefit of increasing consumption. Katie was seen as some sort of an anti-establishment figure, coz she was different from the modeling norm - "waifs" did not really matter much in fashion before she appeared, whatever you may have read about Twiggy and Co. Even at the peak of her popularity, in the mid-90s, waifs were a sideshow, even inside fashion - most people, inc the agency bosses, were interested in promoting conventional "supermodels" with mass appeal. Katie, along with "heroin chic" and the like, was seen as a rather amusing distraction - another product of delightful British eccentricity.
The truth is that Katie was -and still is- only relevant in the Anglo-Saxon world (and not even in places like Australia) - whereas in markets such as France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Russia, or pretty much anywhere else, she has close to zero selling power or mass appeal. She was always closely associated with the Calvin Klein campaigns, which drew a lot of public critisism for presenting a less than "wholesome" teen image - after the "heroin chic" debacle in early 1997, advertisers turned to "healthier" role models and she became irrelevant anywhere except high fashion. Katie clones did appear in the mid-90s - in France it was Audrey Marnay, in Germany Diana Gartner. Still, only Katie expressed the image that French mags describe as "sexy trash" - a not very feminine woman who readily flaunts her not particularly appealing (to straight men) features and seems to shop mainly at flea markets for trashy but flashy clothes (fleamarket shopping for cool fashions is apparently a big thing in the US/UK, but is seen as totally gross most anywhere else)
Katie does have a strong fan base in certain markets- with effectively anorexic teenagers who seem to be more neurotic than the world average - something that is evident in shows such as the "Gilmore Girls", where Rory seems to be in constant need of anxiety therapy. The teenagers of the early 90s who embraced the "waif" image grew up and became the "It girls"- and the high fashion business model after 1995 was built around the "It girl". As I mentioned elsewhere, the unfortunate thing for the big high fashion conglomerates, which replaced stuffy but talented designers like YSL and Ferre with AW's London "fur trim on everything" buddies, was that "It girls" were wiped out with the stock market crash - by late 2000, that market segment had vaporised. This became evident as high fashion mags, like US Vogue, changed their focus towards selling to the "older woman" again - which was why Linda Evangelista was on the Sept 2001 US Vogue cover (looking like her real age, not "10 years younger" like today). In parallel, high fashion tried to create an extreme snobbish market with the Antwerp designers (and "Belgian" models) - the Antwerp designer fashion stores that opened in Moscow were said to be focused on the wealthy snobs who wanted to look different from the Vercace/Prada clientele of similar affluence and cared little about style, elegance and the like. That part of the equation collapsed after 9/11, but despite all the changes and detours, Katie still remained outside the picture, with no campaigns except Rimmel in the UK, where many people complained that her eyebrows in the ads were really fake.
Even if it may offend some, the truth is that Katie always appealed to fashion people who tend to appreciate the "elegance" and fashion sense of Lady Bunny or other transvestites and care little about conventional feminine qualities. The collapse of the big modeling agencies of the 90s led to a situation where any model who looked feminine or remotely sensual was effectively shut out of the high fashion game - even mods who fit the waif/quirky pattern but prove to have mass appeal, like Cintia Dicker, are little liked by AW and her lackeys and are quickly removed from the so-called "A List". The stage was set for industry greats like Lagerfeld and Valentino to come out of their fashion closet and express their true feelings - that all along they were being opressed by a burgeois society which demanded they should champion the "drop-dead gorgeous" woman. Finally, with that woman out of the picture, even in European campaigns and editorials which are mostly produced in NYC nowdays, they could finally talk about the "new elegance", how "trashy" is really so cool and why "poor taste" is so much cooler than burgeois "good taste" - and use Kate Moss as their authentic trashy, fabulous icon. All this suddenly brought Katie - who was probably also surprised about the newfound biz attention on her - to the high fashion forefront about a year or so ago, as the mod who epitomises this mentality.
Most people are perplexed as to why Katie is suddenly doing so many top campaigns - of course Karl and Co can't reveal to the majority of their clients that they really despise their burgeois notions of "good taste" and "elegance", so the NYT "fashion journalists" and the like will keep blabbering about old-style taste and elegance - although the "drop dead gorgeous" female is now Katie, whatever the wider public thinks about the concept...

Kate never regarded herself as a real model - ten years ago, she said that she was really an "anti-model". All the theories about her recent success, like old models vs new models superiority, Katie being seen as some sort of sophisticated woman (Hello !!! Need reality check...her hairdresser was her stylist since she lived in Croydon) and the like, only attempt to offer weak, supermodel era justifications.
The plain truth is that the high fashion biz is saluting their real icon - the trashy, poor taste, anti-elegant anti-feminine anti-model.

Of course, there are always the people who think Katie is really the epitomy of elegance and style - but there are also people who believe that they just saw the real Elvis in their local shopping mall...

Thursday, September 15, 2005

This may help people understand why AW won't give Katie the US Vogue cover page...

The Mirror recently lost a lawsuit brought by Katie and had to pay "substantial" damages - so it's payback time...

"...Kate Moss has been awarded "substantial" libel damages after a British newspaper falsely claimed she collapsed in a drug-induced coma.
The sexy supermodel successfully sued the Sunday Mirror over a report, which contained "serious and defamatory allegations" that she slumped into a coma after taking too much cocaine in Barcelona four years ago

In a NYT NYFW "diary" article, where Conde Nast products, AW or Prada are strangely not mentioned in some context, as is the norm, the following exchange is presented:

"..."Great face, great skin, but can't stand the legs," the head of a major modeling agency was heard saying in the Bryant Park tents as a passel of models walked out of the Naeem Khan show, one of them a currently indispensable Eastern European giantess whose whole is apparently greater than the sum of her parts. "Piano legs," the man's companion was heard to reply. "Stumps."
"Whatever happened to legs like Lauren Hutton's?" the modeling agent said then, referring to the model who Richard Avedon once said had the best inner thighs in the business

Well, obviously not everyone gets goosebumps from the "flawless" mod products discovered by the great casting directors of high fashion -and their groupies- mentioned elsewhere in this Blog...

Erin Wasson was unceremoniously "retired" to the "IMG ho-hum model hall of fame" before FW - following Angie Lindvall, Gisele and others. IMG has been trying hard to price Daria out of biz reality, to support her artificial #1 status, but there are few takers - we'll see if she sells any Lancome products...want to bet on how soon she will be "retired"?

Leticia Birkheuer looks very sexy on the cover of UK Esquire...fellow Brazilian Cinthia Moura will be starring in Showtime's "Masters of Horror" series...

Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Looks like there are still some people who were left out of Conde Nast's "marketing support" program - they got the NY Times covered, but not the W Post... I bet this guy knows bugger-all about "directional shows" and appropriate model selection...

Men's Vogue: Guys and Dollars
By Peter Carlson
Washington Post Staff Writer
Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Human history is, among other things, a compendium of bad ideas -- monarchy, communism, Prohibition, the designated hitter, the XFL, reality TV. And now, the folks at the Conde Nast magazine empire have added another horrific idea to this wretched list:

Men's Vogue.

Men's Vogue? The very name is a truly moronic oxymoron, like holy war or garlic mouthwash. But alas, it is true: Last week, after a century of Vogue and a few years of Teen Vogue, Conde Nast launched Men's Vogue, the first Vogue for American men. And the company is pondering the possibilities of a magazine to be called Vogue Living.

Why? Wasn't one Vogue enough? Was there a groundswell of demand for more Vogues? Were men and teenagers besieging the Conde Nast building, wearing Armani suits and chanting, "We want our own Vogues," while pumping their meticulously manicured fists into the air?

Probably not. But the folks at Conde Nast are always eager to clone profitable magazines. In 2000 they launched a women's shopping mag called Lucky, which spawned a men's shopping mag called Cargo and a home shopping mag called Domino. Vast forests are felled to produce slick paper bearing pictures of expensive consumer goods.

What is Men's Vogue like? Well, it's a lot like GQ, the Conde Nast mag that I always thought was the men's version of Vogue. Except GQ has more stories that aren't about buying stuff.

Thumb through Men's Vogue and you see picture after picture of sensitive young men who haven't shaved since the day before yesterday wearing absurdly expensive clothes and looking perturbed, as if they're thinking: Jeez, did I leave the stove on at home? Or maybe they're just bored. Or constipated.

The ads in Men's Vogue are for absurdly expensive stuff, such as Macallan Scotch, whose slogan is: "Drunk by People Who Sign Off Their Own Expenses." The articles in Men's Vogue are also about absurdly expensive stuff, such as the Hermes Etriviere briefcase, which costs $3,575, and the new Bentley sedan, which costs $170,000, and the Tour de l'Ile wristwatch, which costs $1.5 million.

There's also a photo spread called "In Her Eyes," in which "three ultimate women reveal what really makes them take notice when a man walks in the room." The three "ultimate women" are Jacquetta Wheeler, Karolina Kurkova and Sophie Dahl. (Who are these babes, and how did they get to be ultimate?) They're lovely lasses but apparently quite shallow: What makes them take notice are $4,500 evening jackets and $4,650 watches and $75 pocket hankies.

Of course, what all this boils down to is that Men's Vogue is a "wish book." Like the original "wish book" -- the Sears catalogue of a century ago -- Men's Vogue is a publication for people who want to drool over stuff they'd love to own. Unlike the old Sears catalogue, however, Men's Vogue does not double as an alternate source of toilet paper -- its pages are way too slick.

But I don't want to be too negative. Men's Vogue does have a couple of articles worth reading. One is a profile of Walton Ford, an eccentric and talented artist who hikes the Berkshires to paint strange nature scenes. The other is "A Bloody Good Time," A.A. Gill's arch and mannered essay on British bird-shooting weekends, which contains this sentence:

"Hunting involves a fox being chased by hounds being chased by horses being chased by merchant bankers, gay interior decorators, farmers, resting criminals, nymphomaniac girls with faces like farriers' anvils . . . and Camilla Parker Bowles chased by psychopathic vegan animal liberationists chased by fat policemen chased by paparazzi chased by insurance-claim lawyers."

Wow! That sentence is so wonderful that it almost makes up for the drivel in the rest of the magazine. Almost but not quite.

Alessandra Ambrosio says "Who gives a shit about FW shows?", demonstrates her laptop skills and more...another VS product launch, I guess...whoever could have been present and missed the photo-op should flog himself... then we have the very cute and girly Priscila Uchoa, saucy - OOoohhhhhhhooOOh- Cintia Dicker, Isabel Goulart, a mod who knows how to pose and Mandy Moore - who finally looks like herself again...

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Ana Beatriz with A Slama in the Rosa Cha backstage and afterparty (sponsored by MAC cosmetics) - then one of the Williams sisters with several influencial NYC fashion characters, who obviously do lots of MAC volume buying - and Maja Latinovic with Ana Bia from the Diesel show.

Monday, September 12, 2005

Never Mind the Bollocs...

Yep, never mind the voguey bollocs - that is - there are plenty of clean good quality show pics at, and more importantly, all the shows are covered, not just the ones which receive "marketing support" from Conde Nast...

I guess the NY State Attorney General - E Spitzer - will need the Nasties badly when he runs for Governor - so he'll keep going after some 4th world poor bastards who sell 800-mile range wireless telephones, but won't touch certain beautiful people...obviously "obstruction of business", “attempted intimidation” and monopolistic practices are not a crime if the perpetrator can organize successful fund-raising parties...

Granma can't tell who the f*@%k Heather is !!!

" favorite guest—who told me that she hadn’t heard about what had happened at DVF, or even heard of DVF at all—was the big, gray-haired lady who tried to steal my seat, and finally settled on the one next to it: She was the grandmother of the model Heather Marks and had flown from England for the occasion. “I’m very proud,” she said, admitting that she wasn’t able to tell which girl was her granddaughter. “They all look alike.” — ROB HASKELL ("

Ignorant comments from burgeois clients, says me - they can't possibly grasp the creative genious of NYC show producers/casting directors...

Stuff happens - the damn thing fell on the wrong head...where was AW?


In front of a celebrity studded crowd that included Kelly Osbourne and Paris Hilton, an entire section of lighting—held together by two thick white posts flanking the runway like a goalpost—came crashing down onto the floor as the models walked the finale, hitting and bruising editors and causing a scene that can only be described as chaos. Among those injured included The Daily Telegraph fashion critic Hilary Alexander, Cosmopolitan fashion director Karen Haynes, Teen Vogue editor in chief Amy Astley and The Daily’s own European editor, Karl Treacy. While Astley was injured—she sustained a large cut to her back that destroyed her sweater—her affliction was not as severe as what happened to the other editors. Treacy suffered a gash on his head and was rushed upstairs bleeding from the side of his face; Haynes was ushered to an ambulance, where her neck was supported with a brace and gauze wrapped around her head to keep it secure and immobile; and as for the brave Alexander, she was taken out by a stretcher, head and neck bound with gauze and medical tape, to the hospital via ambulance.

“Don’t be rude! Rise to the fashion occasion,” shouted Vogue’s Billy Norwich angrily as he chastised the many photographers who stayed on to shoot the injured Alexander. “You are all becoming paparazzi! Get out of here!” added French Vogue photographer Stéphane Feugère. Alexander, who at first was in shock after being hit, was escorted to section E, away from where the lights fell, by Vanity Fair fashion director Elizabeth Saltzman, hotelier Andres Balazs and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune. French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld quickly joined the group, as did show publicists Deborah Hughes and Karla Otto. Hughes immediately called for the ambulance and rushed Alexander a cold bottle of water to help sustain the swelling. “Hilary didn’t look so good and she’s a tough cookie,” said Barneys New York’s Julie Gilhart. A visibly shaken—and crying—Diane von Furstenberg ran from one injured editor to another, making sure they were ok and embracing them. Her offices were completely evacuated by the fire department, leaving the likes of Vanity Fair fashion director Anne McNally and painter Anh Duong speechless in shock. A representative for Astley said that she went home, skipping Tuleh, which was taking place at 7pm after the 6pm DVF show, to be with her family. Though she noted that Astley was a bit shaken up, she did not go to the ambulance that was called for her.

The section of lights fell after eyewitnesses said that during the show—and with help from the vibrations from the music and the models walking no less—the goalposts began shaking. The lights, which were the heaviest part of the structure, were top heavy and when they fell, pulled the entire rig down with it. No surprise say some, as so many people—including security guards—were shoved beside the poles that many could not even see the models on the runway.

Ironically, in the show program notes, von Furstenberg attached a hand-written card to each guest that read:

“How do you have a show about joie de vivre and glamour when faced with disasters? After much soul searching I thought that ‘the show must go on’ but that I will match the cost of the show and donate it to Habitat for Humanity to rebuild houses after Katrina.”

Von Furstenberg was not reachable for comment.

Sunday, September 11, 2005

Since NYFW looks like a monumental bore, yours truly will do a politics detour for now...

You probably noticed that mainstream "freedom-loving" US media quickly zeroed on FEMA head Mike Brown as the scapegoat for the Katrina debacle - while his boss, M Chertoff, strangely escaped untouched from any serious critisism. The media quickly discovered obscure "mistakes" in Brown's resume - but found nothing wrong with Chertoff's past...

Chertoff used to work for the Justice Department - Bush's original choice for Homeland Security failed to get the nomination after the media discovered that he employed an illegal alien... Chertoff was choice #2 and got nominated very quickly, without any member of Congress (including the "liberals") expressing reservations about his past policies and actions.
As you can see here, Chertoff " Justice, helped to write the civil liberties-shredding Patriot Act. He was John Ashcroft’s honcho in the indiscriminate grilling of over 5000 Arab-Americans after 9/11, cooked up the use of “material witness” warrants to lock up people of Middle Eastern descent and hold them indefinitely without trial, and on behalf of the Justice Department wrote a brief (in Chavez v. Martinez) arguing there was no Constitutional right to be free of coercive police questioning.
Moreover, Chertoff wrote legislation, known as the Feeney Amendment, which gutted federal sentencing guidelines -- under which federal judges were allowed to use some discretion when sentencing criminal defendants -- by preventing judges from shortening sentences--and, worse, required judges who deviated from the Feeney Amendment to have their names and actions reported to the Justice Department, thus establishing what Sen. Teddy Kennedy denounced as a judicial “blacklist.“
Also, Chertoff "...was responsible for the badly botched prosecution of al-Qaeda terrorist Zacarias Moussaoui, who has yet to be brought to any type of justice even though he was arrested three-and-a-half years ago. Under his leadership, the Justice Department pursued a theory that Moussaoui was 'the 20th hijacker' -- despite zero evidence to support that claim. However, that argument has been used as an excuse to deny the American public from information that might prove what really happened to Flight 93 on 9/11...".
Strangely enough, Chertoff was far more forgiving to a terror suspect who happened to be his client, according to this.
Chertoff was also involved in the conviction of US defense attorney Lynne Stewart - as detailed here "...During the wiretaps of conversations between Rahman and Lynne Stewart, the FBI and DOJ and especially Chertoff and Ashcroft could have learned of information communicated to Lynne Stewart by the Muslim cleric Abdel Rahman revealing possibly incriminating details of how the FBI and DOJ knew in advance of the 1993 WTC bombing through monitoring of Rahman’s cell with FBI informants and paid provocateurs that included the bomb maker Salem..."
Finally, Chertoff may have tried to cover up the torture of "American Taliban" John Walker Lindh, as reported by both the NYT and the Washington Post. Despite the expectation that he "...may Face Questioning Over John Walker Lindh" no such questioning materialized.

Bob Novak, who is also a neocon but not necessarily supportive of Chertoff's political agenda, openly asked " Is there any validity to charges that he misused FBI mob resources in New Jersey?"
Obviously, US senators don't read his you can see from the links, Chertoff is a future Supreme Court prospect, so he needs to come out of this crisis undamaged.

Saturday, September 10, 2005

Top left - looks to me like the better model from Kazan, Tatarstan - Tanya Kovylina (twice). Then we have Isabel Goulart (all from Cortazar) Michelle Alves, cute Thais Oliveira and another interesting mod I can't ID. Ines Rivero was in fact in the Gottex show, nice to see her still modeling.

Friday, September 09, 2005

Petra Nemcova from two recent PR events in NYC on the left - also Ines Rivero with Mini Anden from a party, and an interesting mod from an early Friday FW show

Thursday, September 08, 2005

Needless to say, if you have NY (or Milan, Paris, etc) Fashion Week pics/info, email me (doc/html attached file is OK if you want it formatted your way) and I will post the stuff...

Worry little about getting into the actual shows - find the show venue model entrance/exit and have camera ready...or follow those who seem to know what is going on...

If I never asked a certain lady while she was packing her stuff in the lobby of the Meridien Hotel in Nice once, minutes before I was supposed to drive to Monaco for sightseeing, the next morning after a model contest was over, I would never have known that Yfke Sturm and many other beauties were shooting with Demarchelier on the beach ask questions - and you will be rewarded...

Wednesday, September 07, 2005

NYFW schedule

The NYFW schedule is here:

my suggestions:

Friday: Gottex, modelwatching...
Saturday: Rosa Cha, modelwatching...
Sunday: Luca Luca...
Monday: Betsey Johnson...

Remember - the press office has the party info...

Cintia looking very flowery here...

Valisere always picked good models for their campaigns - Fabiana Tambosi looks heavily glamourized here, but if you like Giselian or VS-style posing, it's a good chance to compare Fabi to the usual VS models...

I was looking at my old Brazilian FW videos from 2001- models like Tatiana Rossi -Dumenti and Fabiana Semprebom were quite visible in most shows...from her fotolog, Fabiana Semprebom (right) with her sister, who looks a lot like CK...

The significance of thic pic - Bruna Brignol and Sylvia Missagia appear idea who is in the middle.

Saturday, September 03, 2005

Fabiana Tambosi on the cover page of September UK Cosmopolitan - this must be her fifth cover for the mag. Ford NYC continues to underutilize the model potential they have in their hands...the mag says that Fabi is "NYC based" - the photo is by M Zapettello.