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Tuesday, May 10, 2005

The latest news is that AW's Conde Nast boss, S.I. Newhouse Jr, is also pressuring the Italians to "shorten" Milan FW by concentrating on "important shows" (code word for shows by Conde Nast publications advertisers) because their FW is "too big" and it inconveniences Botox Wintour and her minions, who would rather do their partying with their Parisienne cronies.

It never ceases to amaze me when the Italians take all these assholes seriously - we are talking about a business worth over 70 billion euros, with over 40 billion euros in exports !!! Despite some recent weakness, caused mainly by the overvaluation of the euro against the dollar (due to the artificially low rate set for the dollar by the US government to help their economy) Italian fashion remains huge - according to Italmedia, Milan FW coverage can boast of numbers such as "...1522 journalists, of whom 833 Italian and 689 foreign, 489 newspapers, 40 television networks, 218 collections on display at the 96 fashion shows (36 taking place at the Milan Trade Fair) for 89 designer labels - alongside the high-range prêt-à-porter fashion shows there was a full series of 129 open presentations, six of which were hosted by the Trade Fair and the other 44 by appointment in locations spread throughout the urban territory of Milan..."

Compare all this to the sorry spectacle in Paris, London and NYC - instead of the president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Mario Boselli, giving them one -or two- fingers (there are lots of Londoners involved in all this) he has to listen to "advice" from the "edgy" element - what are the Nasties going to do, convince their readers to buy Zac Posen instead of Armani, etc if the Italians don't follow their dictates? And who gives a shit even if they manage to do so?

The Italians started digging their grave when they departed from the Gianni Versace winning formula of championing the "drop dead gorgeous woman" and accepted Meisel's anti-models, mostly inspired by some Andy Warhol transvestites his NYC cabal used to hang out with, when they were all basse classe Warhol groupies, back in the 70s.
Now they have to listen to advice from the "Mary Poppins" crowd - and risk the scorn of the alpha female who runs US Vogue! It is still not too late to kick all the Katie Grand types and AW's operatives out of Milan, bar NYC PR firms from producing the big shows along with their laughable models, and Italianize the whole process - the Nasties don't even count anywhere outside NYC, so the Milanese have little to worry about...

1 Comments:

At 5/10/2005 6:32 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Italian people love classical beauty. It's enough to look at the way "normal" people (men & women) are dressed (elegant I mean) and how sexy the TV & ads are for years and years. French people used to think italian are superficial but the truth is that they like what is beautiful (and so beautiful girls). I don't think italian people may like anti-models...

Rodolphe

 

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