One of the best stories about pseudo-Christian cultists, of the eschatology freak variety, who seem to like Dubya a lot, and religion in the USA - better than a Hollywood movie script: (full story here)
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Sunday, October 31, 2004
No major news as the holiday shopping season approaches - maybe 2-3 fashion modelling contests, and then party and wait for the Brazilian shows in January.
The threat of a Maggie Rizer "comeback" looms in the horizon (who can forget trashmeister Karl Lagerfeld's overexposed pics of Maggie, allegedly to help the hapless Fendi sisters sell clothes) after she is expected to get back some of the 7 million bucks her stepfather "defrauded" from her.
The British thought Maggie models coz she represents "the posh female captain of a US polo team" - the NYC crowd thinks she looks "next door fab". I am clueless.
Testino gets to shoot both Versace (Madonna?) and Gucci - it may be trash, but at least in won't be like the el-cheapo NYC-style studio-based Meiselian jobs.
Katie news - LUCIAN FREUD's portrait of a pregnant and naked Kate Moss, unveiled at Christie's yesterday, looks set to fetch at least £3.5 million at auction. The near-lifesize portrait by the 81-year old artist has been hailed by experts at the auction house as "the slow scrutiny of the Old Masters meets the world of contemporary fashion.
No word of what happened to the anatomically correct plaster cast of Katie's butt, stolen from the house of another famous London artist a few years ago - that piece was more representative of contemporary British culture.
I will keep researching this subject.
Clues for the Clueless dept -
UK Vogue editrix Alexandra Shulman (of "Sofia Loren is white trash" fame) says about Elle Mcpherson on the October issue cover:
I had met Elle and we had talked about her underwear range. I was impressed with how evangelical she was, and how incredible she looked. Vogue had never put her on the cover - she's more of an Elle girl, and you are either one or the other.
which means - things are so shitty these days, that if "Elle girls" (she refers to the women Elle magazine prefers to use) can buy some advertising, even Vogue editrixes will abandon their principles and feature them in their mags. AW must be horrified - beautiful and sensual women showing up in Vogue? What's next - models in "soft porn" swimsuits and lingerie?
This can mean the end for "professionals" like Rowland, Bart and Co, who built their careers on selling quirky/kooky faces and bodies. They worked hard to convince the fashionable Joe Blow that "Elle women" have no place in high fashion - if that concept is diluted, what's the future for "hip" Women/IMG/DNA/etc models?
Finally - Cintia Dicker shows some Brazilian teen mod leg
Saturday, October 23, 2004
I can imagine myself in Milan during FW, having to make a choice - if I could only meet two fashion mods, who would they be?
Can't think of a better duo than Cintia Dicker and Constantini (both with Marilyn Brazil) right now.
Btw, always happy to "enhance" blurry model candids, just e-mail them to me !!!
Doesn't the new US Vogue cover seem strange?
Why is there an elegant woman on it? (November covergirl is reportedly Jennifer Connelly)
That's weird. Either they scrapped the intended cover and had to find something else quickly, or there is something going on with their contract photographers.
Meanwhile, trashmeister Karl (Mr Berge once called him the "King of Trash") declared that "Paris is the Red Carpet".
Tell me one "red carpet" event of any international significance that takes place in Paris - I don't think the Love Parade qualifies.
Monaco maybe, Cannes certainly, but not Paris - it's just a overpriced luxury fashions shopping paradise.
Friday, October 22, 2004
Back when Texas "trailer trash" was chic...
Yes folks, it was Spring 1999, and the Italian Marie Claire people decided to travel all the way to Texas to shoot a "trailer trash chic" (known in NYC as "poverty chic") feature with Bridget Hall, Angie Lindvall and two of their sisters - it was one of those 950+ page Milan FW MC issues that could be used for all kinds of jobs due to its size and weight, this was probably the best photo ever taken of Angie, on the mag cover along with Bridget.
The girls were shot outside Austin Texas, in an industrial area, next to a Dairy Queen which had a "$2 Beltbuster" special, while trying to impress truck drivers in their trendy Cavalli/Exte dresses, and even in a trailer home (!!) where Angie seemed to have a lot of fun with Sunny, Bridget's sister - the other girl, Audrey, is Angie's sister, or vice versa.
A second editorial the following month featured Angie and family in their home in west Kansas (or maybe north Texas).
I dunno whether the high fashion illuminati in NYC approved of all that (Marie Claire? sheesh) but since Angie is with IMG, the usual "oh she did SI/GUESS/MC/all that uncool stuff, her career is probably over" bullshit was limited or non-existent. SI btw reported that Angie (yep, she showed up in SI in a bikini, no shit) lives in some sort of riverboat.
Wednesday, October 20, 2004
A good way to forget the "high fashion" trash for a moment is to talk about Talytha Pugliesi - she was discovered at 14/15 while shopping in Sao Paulo (she is reportedly from Valinhos, SP), appeared in a few French mags in 1999 at 16, but really exploded internationally during the following two years. Today, still only 22 years old, she is a regular in the Spanish fashion weeks, where female elegance still counts, and continues to work internationally. She likes to be near any beach and was recently photographed by Brazilian Trip magazine in a beach setting. Being with Ford Models isn't exactly a career booster nowdays, but I bet Talytha will be around for years to come.
A rare pic from 2001 - Sao Paulo FW was Morumbi Fashion back then, and the pic includes Mari Weickert, Carol Ribeiro, Vanessa Greco, Talytha and Ana Claudia Michels.
The ad is from the famous campaign she did for Sonia Rykiel.
Sunday, October 17, 2004
Ford Brazil stuff - they claim that Brazilian model/celeb Patricia Silveira (already in Rampage ads, and on the cover of Fitness mag)will be in the new GUESS campaign - I haven't seen the new ads yet.
Valeria Bohm, from a Blueman show two years ago
If Brazilian model/celebs (like Patricia, or Leticia Birkheuer's sister, Michele) start invading the fashion model biz, there will be a bloodbath.
Ford's new face, Nara, is in Jil Sander while Liliane F also got Eccho by Davidoff
Fabi Tambosi gets yet another UK Cosmopolitan cover - she appears in the November 2004 issue, with her semi-naughty look. Thanks to Pleb for the scan.
Fabi btw was also in the Summer 2004 ads for Denny Rose
Valeria Bohm, who won some weird contest back in 1996 and surfaced again recently, after she won another contest which landed her a place in the 2005 Pirelli Calendar, should get more hype - she is 1m80 tall and to call her statuesque would be an understatement.
Talytha Pugliesi, easily among the 4-5 most elegant faces in modelling, deserves much better luck - why has Ford failed so miserably with her?
Not to mention cute Yasmin Brunet - the ultimate model/celeb, on the same hype level as Gisele in Brazil.
Saturday, October 16, 2004
Another "major fashion capital" show season is over - this was the season when the high fashion pros were allegedly going to "explore good taste" (tells you what kind of taste the so-called "A-List" normally represents - in case you haven't noticed yet).
On top of that, the industry giants, like Ivan Bart, claimed that "...addicts, aliens and other forlorn creatures of the catwalks will probably be pushed to the margins...to make way for a new breed of swan..."
Natalia Zavillova, from Slovakia, when I first saw her, five years ago - she obviously isn't quirky enough for high fashion success
Last time I checked, Karen Elson was still very much hip (guess which sort of "creature" she may be) and the various Bugs were very visible - although I am not sure what a high fashion "swan" is supposed to look like...but then again, if a ton of elegance ever falls on Bart's or Rowland's head, they still won't know what hit them.
The NYC biz "pros" talked about their current models having no "real identity and a memorable face", being "marginal and often unremarkable faces", who "don't inspire any kind of longing" - Bart reportedly "sniffed out" that there will be "a return to glamour", starting this season.
I guess the plan was postponed, and they just glamourized K Elson, Missy Rayder and others from the "ye olde faithful" NYC club, along with all sorts of real or fake redheads. (Btw this was obviously the season for the losers at Elite to do something with Natalia Zavillova - but then, they wouldn't be the losers that they are). The resurrection of Kristen McMenamy was probably the pinnacle of the "return to glamour", NYC-style.
Still doing post-mortem analysis, with FTV having more expanded show coverage than in recent seasons, but the fact is that when you check the names of the mods who "impressed" the usual suspects, it's business as usual.
I am doing some plumbing work and I had to relocate some of my piled-up mag columns - so I grabbed a few interesting issues from past years, and did a little scanning.
The 20ANS 07/01 issue with Ana Beatriz on the cover is not in the best condition, but you get to see Ana in a Zepetello pic from mid 1999 - I think that was when she was based in Paris.
The Grazia issue from July 2001 features Nina Zukova, a Russian mod who is far better that anyone Rowland, Bart and Co will ever come up with - another career botched by Elite Models.
The Russian Elle cover from March 2002 features the unparalleled elegance of Kristina Tsirekidze, by Vladimir Friedkes - makes the usual "A-List" blondes look boring.
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Dr. Strangelove is back
The NYTimes reports on the re-release of "Dr Strangelove", Stanley Kubrick's 1964 film "about nuclear-war plans run amok".
The article mentions that Daniel Ellsberg, who leaked the Pentagon Papers in the 70s, and who was a RAND analyst and later a consultant at the Defense Department, took off work one afternoon in 1964 with a mid-level official to see the film - "...Mr. Ellsberg recently recalled that as they left the theater, he turned to his colleague and said, 'That was a documentary!'..." (full post here)
Saturday, October 09, 2004
Self-proclaimed "weirdo" admitted taking drugs in 1993 - Kristen McMenamy interview
The Chanel show in Paris featured several "supermodels" - including, according to fashion media, Kristen McMenamy.
Kristen had become the top NYC model biz face by 1995/96 - a US Vogue covergirl, she was a failure when it came to matching the popular appeal of the "true" supermods, and you will be hard-pressed to find anyone outside NYC remembering her.
She disappeared along with most hip NYC biz waifs from the mid-90s(a few, like Amber Valletta, were resurrected after 1998) and surfaced again in the recent Prada show in Milan. Those who find S Meisel a little too predictable suspected what was coming up after Guinevere Van Seenus was "recalled"...
Kristen's inclusion in the Chanel show, after the Prada opening, is an effort by AW and Co to rehabilitate her - as to why she went AWOL, the following may provide some clues - remember, that was "heroin chic" time, and the Face was one of the influential publications which promoted hard drug use as fashionably hip
THE FACE - UK
Aug 1993 KRISTEN McMENAMY by Lucie Young (full post here)
Friday, October 08, 2004
Ana Beatriz in Brazilian Elle, Minas Gerais special
Thursday, October 07, 2004
........Yawn........ the Paris shows are more predictable than Milan modelwise - after all, the Parisienne have surrendered their (insignificant) business to AW and Co, and even arrange their shows to fit her busy schedule, so casting choices can only be expected to be heavily NYC-flavoured - guess what, even Erin Wasson showed up. E Volodina made it back to the "major league" in Paris, after doing only a few minor shows in Milan.
The only mod worthy of mention is Chiara Baschetti at JP Gaultier - she won an Elite contest last year, she is known as the "Italian Cindy Crawford" and is 17 yo and at least 1m82 tall.
Wednesday, October 06, 2004
Maja gets US Wonderbra
NEW YORK - OCTOBER 6: Model Maja unveils new Wonderbra billboard in Times Square to celebrate Wonderbra's 10th Anniversary on October 6, 2004 in New York City. (Photo by Peter Kramer/Getty Images)
This should be a big one for Maja, she is also very visible in the Bebe ads - unfortunately, Wonderbra PR in the US can be classified as shitty - at best. Did you know Erica Redling has also appeared in US Wonderbra ads? I found out by chance. In the UK, the new Wonderbra girl - Inna Zobova currently - is first page news.
Good news from YSL Beaute - after Michele Alves for Cinema, Nataliya Gotsiy will be in a new parfume campaign. Looks like the Tom Ford trash days are over.
Tom btw talked to Corriere della Sera - he said that he is working on three movie projects, and if he "returns" to fashion, it won't have anything to do with his past activities.
Eva Herzigova gets a lot of attention during Paris FW - she was very friendly with Karolina Kurkova in a party she gave to promote her own line (Czech top models never seemed to get along well in the past) and catwalked in a number of shows.
Tuesday, October 05, 2004
Alvaro/Isabeli saga continues...
While Isabeli travelled to Milan/Paris with her grandmother, Alvaro spoke to QUEM (Sept 30th issue) - the translation is approximate.
Alvaro objected to baby Zion staying with Isabeli's mother while she was travelling.
Isabeli arrived in Brazil from Jamaica on Sept 18th and left on Sept 23d for Spain, without seeing her son, whom she had left to Alvaro. She was apparently with Henri Castelli at the time, and was seen in Florianopolis.
Interestingly, Isabeli had a fight with her mother, Maribel, for over a year before Zion was born, but they got close again whle she was pregnant - the pregnancy btw was "unplanned".
QUEM - You don't want to leave Isabeli see Zion?
ALVARO JACOMOSSI - Isabeli delivered the child to me as she was to travel. We made a verbal agreement that she would be with the Zion one month and me, another one. The judge did not agree to this because the child needed a routine life, he cannot be each day in different place.
QUEM - She says that you have refused to say where she the child is.
Ã�J - I already knew that she started a process against me. They had started accusing me of kidnapping, but I am the father of the child. Nobody is looking for me. This is nonsense. She wants to be travelling for three months with Zion. I am the father. Why I can't be with the child?
QUEM - But where is Zion, then?
Ã�J - With my sister Helena, who takes care of him since he was small, in Blumenau, but he always is with me.
QUEM - It is true that you want half of the money?
Ã�J - The 10 million that has been spoken about does not exist. I am single, 24 years old, my family has money. Already I made ten more international campaigns. Isabeli helps to support the family. What I want is to divide what we constructed together. We have a house, an inn and two cars. I only want what I have a right to. I have made investments and kept money.
QUEM - And what would be the solution?
Ã�J - I find that Isabeli is lost, she does not know what she is doing. This is not a thing for civilized people. All my telephones are working, they know where to find me.
Sunday, October 03, 2004
Who cares - what really matters is to find out what Bruna Brignol is doing - lost in Europe somewhere?
Her boyfriend is a Brazilian male model and a "Rodrigo Santoro lookalike", which I guess is a good thing !!
Nice to see Cintia Dicker doing so many shows in Milan - including Gucci. It's good to have an attractive redhead for a change - not all redheads in modelling need to look like Chucky's relatives (Chucky's bride was in fact blonde)
Saturday, October 02, 2004
Poor Taste rules OK
As for the pathetic Milanese who give jobs to AW's operatives in hope of attracting her attention, this is what she thinks of them:
"..."I told Miuccia today, `You're the only reason we all come to Milan,' " Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue, said on Sept. 30 from her front-row perch at the Gucci show..."
That's the only reason for AW and her lackeys (who never showed any propensity for independent thinking, which is why she is so certain that "all" NYC fashionable types visiting Milan FW think like her) to attend a fashion week event which showcases an 83 billion dollar business.
btw the NYC media suckup jobs to Miuccia keep omitting that she was - and remains - a hardline communist, in addition to being "..a mercurial, contradictory and shrewd woman in her early 50's, an informed art patron, a doting mother, a tempestuous employer..." etc etc
I guess associating with commies is still bad PR in the USA...
In the latest NYTimes article on her, they of course also neglect to mention that she is "inspired by the banal" or that her fashions are meant to poke fun on middle-class people
Miuccia herself described in this manner her obsession with "taste":
"'I was obsessed by trash, that trashy Seventies feeling. Bad taste - I loved it.'
She also admitted in a interview a couple of years ago that she had to "fight against my bourgeois, good taste"
Before a show, she remarked about her designs: "There's a certain bad taste, but it looks so charming. When we do the fittings, we say, 'How awful--and how charming.'"
btw, this is Miuccia's opinion about one of AW's faves, and the new Chanel No 5 icon:
"..'What all these actresses wear to the Academy Awards now - it's just dresses...They have no personality. You rarely see them think about it. It's as if women are afraid to explore who they are any more. Now how can that be sexy? Watch them. Look at Nicole Kidman. She is beautiful and she is nice. But sexy?' Prada shook her head sadly. 'A zero.'..."
Her past story shows why AW and Co like her so much - from a UK paper article on her (the Londoners don't think communism is a dirty word)
"...Miuccia has been exposed to luxury as a way of life since the day she was born...she says her childhood was dull. Her parents were typically severe and she was severely bored. By the age of 15, she had begun to rebel...she began to dress in an eccentric - even bizarre - manner...she enrolled at the University of Milan and eventually received a doctorate in political science. She joined the Communist Party...at protests, however, she would turn up looking a little different from the other revolutionaries: she refused to wear jeans, preferring high heels and vintage dresses, which she found in thrift shops...she always felt that a career in fashion would be demeaning. By the early Seventies, though, Prada needed money, so she went to work where she could find a job - in the family store..."
On her relationship with her husband, and his business plan - "...Bertelli and Prada have been known to argue so violently that employees have had to dodge the things they throw at each other...Once, a few years ago, when a strained business meeting got out of hand - the two disagreed fundamentally about a product - Bertelli erupted, shouting, 'I'll piss on your shitty handbags!'...In the Eighties, when Prada bags and shoes first gained popularity, Bertelli insisted that if small, high-priced boutiques wanted to receive the accessories that sold so well for them, they also had to carry the new line of women's clothing. The strategy prevented many such shops, with their limited display space and tight budgets, from offering the work of competing designers, which was exactly what Bertelli had in mind. Shop owners wanted the shoes and the bags, so they also took the clothes - and Prada elbowed its way on to the shelves of stores throughout Europe and America..."
Well, bourgeois "good taste" - which Miuccia, AW and their fans often make fun of - is actually "the mechanism by which the consumption of approved objects is encouraged" - the same tactic use to sell Prada products !!!
The typical buyers (the ones who know that Prada makes clothes - 9 out of 10 people only know about Prada bags and shoes) are described here:
"The ordinary, or a cleaned-up tricked-out ordinary, has become the most fashionable thing among a certain fortyish set that likes its status objects ostentatiously utilitarian: Range Rovers, Sub-Zero refrigerators and Viking stoves, Shaker sidechairs, wooden boats, Prada everything..."
When you look at who controls high fashion, what you have is a group of women with similar characteristics - an affluent family background, a tendency to dress "strange" and shop from thrift shops and flea markets, who make fun of ordinary people and their tastes, adore "poor taste", and lie to the same people every day to trick them into buying their magazines or other products
I personally couldn't care less - if they didn't keep manipulating the fashion modelling biz, imposing their "poor taste" on model selections.
The character in London who looks for new Prada/MiuMiu "exclusives" - preferrably ones who can't walk properly and are completely incompetent as models - is the one who supplies the model biz "professionals" with most of their fresh "A-List" wonders.
It's by now obvious to almost everybody that sensual or simply attractive models are locked out of the jobs they would easily get in any open casting - after all, you'll never see these sort of women around AW or Miuccia either, since they could attract attention away from the ladies who tried so hard all their lives to make an impression in their "strange clothes" - since they lacked other means...
A few looks from Milan - a suitable title may be "unlikely to be worn in NYC"
The good news is that the Gucci design team relocated from London to Milan -this is a sign that the Gucci owners are trying to move away from the Tom Ford way of doing things.
The bad news is that they hired some London aristotart as a "style consultant" - this isn't going to help much.
Donatella V will not show Versus and won't have celebs in her first row.
Richard Avedon and Geoffrey Beene died this week - and since you come to this Blog to read what NY Times, etc "journalism" forgets to mention, Mr Beene once described A Wintour's belief system as follows: "It's all about merch, merch, merch"
He also said that "Wintour is a woman of simmering discontent...a boss lady in four-wheel drive who ignores or abandons those who do not fuel her tank. As an editor, she has turned class into mass, taste into waste. Is she not a trend herself?"
Obviously yes, the dominant trend in a couple of "fashion capitals", at least