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Monday, September 20, 2004

CINEMA by YSL Beaute, etc

Michelle Alves looks amazing in the campaign for the brand new CINEMA perfume, by YSL Beaute - photography by Mondino. The product launch is slated for October, but promo posters may already be available at your local beauty store - in Europe at least.

Why didn't they use one of the NYC hip "beauty" models, like Omahyra, Karen Elson or Anouck L? (Katie is way too exclusive)
The usual suspects will be pissed - Rowland, Bart and Co will end up making bugger-all money if clients choose to use proper models. Not having Tom Ford around (he was responsible for casting K Elson for the re-launch of YSL Rive Gauche, the ludicrous S Dahl for Opium, etc) is already hurting the hip crowd - AW was right when she said that his departure from fashion was a disaster (for her cash flow).

I got the Special Mode issue of French Elle - I buy it every year, even though I stopped paying much attention to the mag after it went semi-edgy. The Natalia Vodianova pics (dozens of them) are actually quite good, no shitty high fashion photography here. Elle can claim they used her before the hipsters knew she existed, although that's like me saying I was wearing a baseball hat before it became hip with the fashionistas.

Vodya impersonating the Copenhagen Little Mermaid, my scan (seems to be the only one) from an old classic French Elle beauty feature - I don't think the types who salivate over S Meisel's homoerotic female nudity will be as elated about this one...
The ads are mixed - the usual globalization high fashion fare dominates (but the Moschino CheapandChic models don't show their faces, as in most Euro mags so far). Why should I care about Luca G impersonating Daniela Urzi for BOSS - Hugo Boss? Among the few ads worthy of mention are Tod's (Anja Rubik?) and the two campaigns with Diana Dondoe - the Nina Ricci one beats the various Bug "specials" by miles. Diana is a high fashion aberration, like Hana, Raquel Zimmermann and a couple more among the "hip" mods - she was actually one of the best young models in Romania before she became widely known, while Hana was the top young Czech mod when she was 13/14 yo. Girlie kittenish Hana btw looks convincingly sensual in the Gucci Envy Me perfume ad.
Sportmax looks like the promo poster for a sequel of "Close Encounters of the Third Kind". Nadine S could easily get a job for Hustler mag and looks naughty enough for the Malizia line of LaPerla - her boobs look smaller than a year ago.
Isabelli is overused this season - her Versace ad certainly looks better than the average for the brand. The Nina Ricci "Love in Paris" perfume ad went overboard in the hair styling dept. The Chloe mods are a good example of what non-descript blondes look like. Erin Wasson running in some ersatz Fontainebleau forest for Legerfeld Gallery is too eclectic for me. The French lingerie ads are a complete disaster - although the Etam vixens look interesting. Some of the girls in the NafNaf ads are intriguing - any IDs?


At 9/22/2004 4:08 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

This season's ads are not good at all. I like Ungaro with Diana Dondoe, Chloe with Dewi and Caroline W (actually I think that's the best campaign of the season - although some would argue that would be Jil Sander, ugh), Celine with Louise Pederson (and I don't even like her), Versace only because of the hair.. that's about it. It's a really bad season regarding ad campaigns, though I haven't seen them all. Kate for Missoni is getting old, Gemma for YSL is horrible, Daria for Gucci has like one good photograph out of 20, DKNY with Fanni and Louise P running around Central Park it's not good (better than the "movie" ads with Angie Lindvall though). Burberry with Karen and co. is a bore.. hmm Cavalli with Lindvall looks nice.. must be the hair again.. Jil Sander uses the same style as last season and the season before that, I say bring back MALGOSIA BELA and Mario Sorrenti, or at least Anne-Catherine :D hell I will even settle for Guinevere. Armani with Linda V is boring, it was cool with Leticia but let's drop it already.. I liked the ones with Natasha Vojnovic some seasons ago and even Mini Anden (Paolo Roversi was the photographer? or Lindbergh, I'm not sure). Hugo Boss is undescript, I really liked last season's ads with Luca but now it's just another casual wear campaign, like Banana Republic UGH although at least they used Ai Tominaga. Chanel with Isabeli is like Kate Moss's ads, it's so boring to look at (she does look gorgeous, hmm a little masculine maybe?). Dior is like every season since Raica's ads, that was the last great Dior campaign.. they really should get rid of Gisele already, like Dolce and Missoni did. The Dolce ads are quite good, they look mysterious and, well, cool. Missoni, I don't even know which season I'm looking at. Things should improve next season.. I'm seeing so many black models on the runway, I hope it translates into campaigns.


At 9/22/2004 1:41 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Carola, as ever, you're so right in summing the situation up; too many of the campaigns are just stale continuations of previous seasons' images, with Kate Moss for Missoni being the worst. Advertisers aren't making enough effort to develop their visual themes through each new season... it's not enough anymore, simply to hire Gisele and have her pose with the handbag.



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