This chat board is for comments on models, mag features, events, and all model-related stuff

Friday, August 04, 2006

Back in March and April of 1999, Italian Marie Claire run a couple of editorials featuring Angie Lindvall, Bridget Hall and their sisters - Audrey Lindvall and Sunny Hall.
Some of the pics were shot in the Lindvall residence in Lee's Summit, Missouri - near Kansas City.
In the pic, Angie and Bridget on the left, Sunny and Audrey (in the back) on the right - the shoot was done by Thierney Gearon, outside Austin, Texas.

According to press reports, Audrey Lindvall died in a bike accident in Lee's Summit last Wednesday - one week before her 24th birthday...

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Trashmeister Karl news - always predictable, he tells the Sunday Times that he loves Kate Moss but disapproves of Naomi C.

Karl L says 99% of women would love to have Katie's legs/knees

The reasons given are typical Karl bullshit talk - Katie deserves the adulation she receives from the fashion world and beyond: "Because the image is controlled..." - yeah, as if we didn't know...
Also, "...What she projects, everyone would love to do if they had the courage. Girls want to look like her and they want to behave like her. Kate has the courage to be 150 per cent herself; she has something very special, very touching. There is no second Kate Moss. People want to look and be like her, to have something that is very daring, but it must remain a fantasy for 99 per cent of the world: they don't have the looks, the circumstances, the thing..."

I bet most women are glad they don't look like Katie - with crooked teeth/legs, knobbly knees and a chav face - as for the "thing", I am not sure what it is...
But the news is the reason he doesn't like Naomi - "...The way she behaves is not very chic...I hate people who let themselves go, I hate drunk women. To keep a certain discipline in life is a good thing...."

Hello !!!!!! Katie is the one who has "discipline"?
The same Katie who admitted she was never sober on the set for over 10 years?

Tells you what sort of crap artists high fashion types are, and how seriously you should take them...not that Karl L was ever taken seriously by anyone

Monday, July 24, 2006

Yeah, I know, Carine Roitfeld is no longer popular with AW's cronies - the same people who used to adore her style now question her aesthetic and Paris Vogue cover choices.. What changed?
It can't be just that AW is pissed with the fact that "...Bee Shaffer, Anna Wintour's debutante daughter, at the Crillon Ball, appeared in the middle of an 'erotic-chic' edition of the magazine..."

...'Unfortunately,' Roitfeld winces, 'just after the most erotic picture in the entire magazine.' There were diary stories claiming Wintour was horrified. 'And of course some nice people left this story on my desk. But really I wanted to do something beautiful for Bee. I was very shocked… I sent Anna Wintour a note and she sent me a note back: "Don't worry, we love the pictures."
(If looks could kill, UK Telegraph, 13/11/2005)

So AW loved the pics - but not Carine any more, since her minions at the NYT and elsewhere no longer pay any attention to her...

Carine also made a serious blunder in that interview last year - she said "...I prefer to have my hands in my pocket than to have a nice little bag. So I am not good for all these fashions. They have to sell bags, bags, bags, bags, bags, bags. I hate handbags...."

Oh well - this kind of talk will get you in trouble with major Conde Nast advertisers, like LVMH...after all, Vuitton fashion exists just to help sell their bags...

From the days when AW's fans loved everything about her:

Gorgeous v cool
Gorgeous is so 80s. To be today's hot item you need to be cool

Shane Watson
Friday March 30, 2001
The Guardian

Last week I found myself queuing for the chairlift alongside Carine Roitfeld. The name will mean nothing but it's enough to induce serious collywobbles in the fashion world for Carine is the most stingingly hip of stylists and editor of French Vogue.
Naturally I was mesmerised. You could have waved Benicio del Torro in front of me and I wouldn't have been distracted from the very important business of soaking in the constituents of Roitfeld's "look". "That", I hissed to my companions, "is the coolest woman in the world". They looked puzzled, gazing straight past her at the pretty blonde in the pastel all-in-one.

Honestly. I had to stand next to her and jab my thumb in her direction before they got it and even then they refused to believe that someone with a face like Iggy Pop's, legs like Rumplestiltskin and the expression of a childcatcher could be the icon of fashion girls world over. "That", said one of them, "is the scariest looking woman I've ever seen". But isn't that the thing about cool? It is prized beyond rubies by a few obsessive individuals and is absolutely incomprehensible to everyone else.
Gorgeous, as Anna Wintour might put it, is so 80s. And gorgeous is too easy.
In Cool World you can have a face like a goat and a brain the size of a raisin but if you're achingly thin, suitably detached and you were the first to cut your jeans down to your pubic bone then you'll command respect. Cool is the reason why sane, grown up women worship Kate Moss (achievements to date, modelling and looking good in own clothes) and not Claudia Schiffer, never mind Cherie Blair. Cool is the reason why most of the population flick through the pages of fashion magazines thinking, "Christ! Who would wear that?"

It's why Armani has linked up with I-d magazine to sponsor a street-style exhibition next week and Chanel hopped into bed with the bi-annual Pop - two of the biggest, richest designers in the world grovelling at the doorstep of two Brit low-budget publications simply in order to bask in their reflected cool.


Yep - gorgeous is so 80s...dunno if comparing Carine to Rumplestiltskin was a bit too harsh, but adopting Iggy's hairstyle didn't help with that comparison...btw you can bet you won't see these sort of articles from any American "fashion journalist"

Friday, July 21, 2006

Boring news Dept...the cover of the August issue of US Vogue reportedly features Linda Evangelista. The last time Linda E was on the mag's cover page was the September 2001 issue, shortly before 9/11...maybe AW knows something we don't?

The mag claims that the supermodels are back and getting their revenge - from whom? Not AW, who was instrumental in their demise by promoting "heroin chic" and the various superwaifs, perhaps? Meisel and Co hated them - in the Bailey TV series on models, you can see Demarchelier and other top photographers waiting for up to 3-4 days before Linda, Naomi etc decide to show up for their shoots...that was in late 94 and 1995.
When high fashion types mention the word "supermodel" they have three names in mind -Linda E, Naomi C and Christy Turlington, known the "trinity". Naomi had to endure the typical NYC/London biz racism and was never really popular in those fashion capitals - but she is still huge everywhere else. At the age of 35, you have to try very hard to spot any cosmetic surgery she may have done. AW afficionados are often disturbed by Naomi's harsh treatment of her assistants - strangely, they have absolutely no problem with Kate Moss and her equally bizarre behaviour. Apparently "never being sober during work for the last ten years", as Katie herself admitted, is their idea of what modeling is all about.
Christy T is virtually unknown outside the USA - which leads us to Linda E.

After the biz grew tired of the "trinity", Linda, who was no longer with Gerald Marie, had an affair with MacLachlan and continued to be popular and on mag covers everywhere until 1997/98. Her catwalk times were over though - while in Porto for Fashion Week Portugal, she couldn't walk in a straight line. Barthez and "three years of seclusion" in the French Riviera followed.
Why did AW suddenly remember Linda again in 1991? In addition to the fact that she had lost 75 pounds (AW loves everyone who goes anorexic - she reportedly once promised Eva Herzigova the mag cover during dinner, if she managed to lose enough weight) there were real business reasons. The Wall St bubble had exploded and a whole army of "It" girls had been wiped out with the market crash. The biz had to appeal to older women again, in order to recover from the dive in advertising revenues. Linda was the perfect 36 yo for AW - at the time she actually looked like a woman in the mid-30s. After all, the average US Vogue reader was a "NYC racy divorcee, over 33 and with 2.5 kids"...
Today, after she admitted to have been heavily botoxed, Linda looks "ten years younger" - which means she is somewhere in 1996...anyone who compares the two US Vogue covers may find the whole thing grotesque - or perhaps a triumph for modern medical science.
Why is a 41 yo model -who looks like a 31 yo model- relevant?
Who knows - AW always has dollar signs flashing in her eyes, so there should be a twist. Or maybe not...perhaps something went wrong with their original cover choice? AW's minions in the NY Times and elsewhere will soon enlighten us - so, no need to worry.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Interesting articles from past years Dept

Is there any such thing as an alpha female?
There has always been talk of the alpha male, but what of its female equivalent?
Who is she, asks Clare Longrigg

Monday September 22, 2003
The Guardian

(edited)...If we base alpha female on the male model, we will find her in the boardroom, impersonating his bullying and overriding ambition... Anna Wintour, editor of US Vogue, is a classic example of alpha female, driven by insecurity and ruling by fear. She is aloof, inscrutable behind those dark glasses.
There are very few alpha females of this order, since most women have had the alpha-male qualities conditioned out of them and have been steered towards nurturing roles rather than world domination.

Beyond Hollywood, Sarah Dunant, writer and author of The Birth of Venus, sees alpha female as inhuman rather than superhuman. Her life is ordered by employees while she focuses on achievements and looking good. "Alpha female, like alpha male, depends on such a sense of innate superiority that she's probably not aware of her status. While she would be effortlessly talented and capable, she would need a reduced capacity for empathy, because otherwise it would derail her. If she has children, they only come out between 7-8pm, washed, dressed and brought up by someone else. I envisage the mind of Mary Warnock, the body of Kate Moss and the humanity of Leni Riefenstahl."

Achievement is the focus of alpha female's life; anything else is secondary. She does not obsess about relationships. She is dominant: if she married alpha male, there would be a bloodbath. Novelist Fay Weldon sees alpha female running corporations, paying little or no attention to the domestic sphere - which is where she differs from Superwoman: "Superwoman was everything man and woman wanted her to be: she did everything and was a good wife, earned a good salary and kept the carpets shampooed. Alpha woman wouldn't concern herself with housework: she would find someone else to whom she would delegate.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Got the July 06 issue of French PHOTO today - more of those Adriana and Ana Beatriz pics, by Ellen v pics from a photo book by M Glaviano with nudes shot in Sardinia

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Diana Kovalchuk polaroid by her UK agency, Premiere...anyone knows if this is recent?

Sao Paulo FW, Verao 07... Whoa! Cintia baby!

I think this is an older pic - "Yes, we are in fact fashion models, and we have proof!"
Daniela Sarahyba (was in the last SI Swimsuit issue), Michele Alves and the gorgeous Fernanda Motta

Friday, July 14, 2006

SPFW - the Cia Maritima show was very 70s, and with the right mellow music...check out the video -and lots more- here

Blasts from the past - Juliana Massiviero, Vanessa de Assis...

Sao Paulo FW - the good ole days of 2000-2002 are gone, Ana Beatriz lost 8-10 kilos in the meantime and Jeisa over 10% of her already low body weight, but the classic swimsuit shows are still interesting to watch - from Agua de Coco and Cia Maritima:
Valya Zelyaeva, ? , Valya, Julia Pereira, Gianne Albertoni, Eliza Joenck, Yasmin Brunet, Gianne

Thursday, July 13, 2006

The NYT fashion section has a story on the recent popularity of miniskirts - and news that Sienna Miller will play a Warhol heroine in an upcoming can bet the cabal is excited.

Note the dancing girls in miniskirts in this Amboy Dukes video from 1966 - that is forty years ago - Ted Nugent on guitar, in his early days...most dancers do look like the typical NYC modely blonde (or Julia Stegner) - I guess IMG would have signed them right away if they were anorexic...

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Michele Alves (in the pic) is still with Guy Oseary, Madonna's manager and director of Maverick Records - and she is four months pregnant (it's a boy)
Despite the pregnancy, she will be doing several shows in SP - the last info mentions a total of eleven, among them Água de Coco, Cia Marítima, Lino Villaventura, Osklen and Movimento.
Her agent in Brazil is now Gisele's old booker, so her PR should improve significantly...

The new Cia Maritima campaign features Eliza Joenck (yeay) and cute youngster Yasmin Brunet - whose PR is at least as good as Gisele's in Brazil...the show will feature Michele, Ellen Jabour (another of many Gisele lookalikes) Marcele Bittar and Carol Gianne Albertoni, said to have the "best body" currently
SPFW guest models list updated - Elise Crombez and Kim Noorda...
Fernanda Tavares returns to Brazil - she will be in the new campaign for Sais...she is now in Italy to shoot an ed for Vogue Italia, and will come back to SP to do a show after SPFW is over...

Michele of course doesn't appeal to the hipster cabal in NYC - she has a classic feminine elegant look, which is totally alien to them (Tom Ford's fave female beauties are said to be Stevie Nicks and Farah Fawcett (!!) - and he is supposedly on the "elegant" side...)
Her look is very similar to Rhea Durham, who is almost forgotten today - but in the late 90s, Rhea replaced Cindy C as the Revlon girl, and was one of very few NYC models who could sell products internationally and didn't look like the typical midwest / deep south trailer trash mod material that the cabal so adores...

Sunday, July 09, 2006

Meisel and Co have finally reached Argentina in their quest for fresh crappy model material...their alleged discoveries are a Romina and some other forgettable face...Argentina modelwise is where Brazil was in 1999 -ie Gisele types are still a dime a dozen, as evident from the Giordano shows on FTV...there are plenty of good local mods, one of the prime examples being Daniela Urzi - check out her site - click on Work/TV commercials to see her Nivea Beaute TV ads

Classic Ana Beatriz from the cover of Greek H Bazaar...May 2005, pic shot in NYC, perhaps a cover try for the US issue

Saturday, July 08, 2006

Art, Postmodernism, Warholites and the High Fashion cabal - III

What about Betak? He is French - but so is Carine Roitfeld...the same shitty mods show up in his shows, so he is a good collaborator when it comes to model selection...

Betak is credited with the "sexy" mod selection in the Victoria's Secret shows - but people may remember the 2003 show, when the "Belgian" influence in NYC was near its peak, and the VS runway was full of quirky superwaifs, including Betak's wife...The VS people were reportedly so insecure, that they hired three different NYC fashion PR firms, to make sure they kept everyone happy - I guess they thought the end of the "sexy model" was near...

You've probably missed the bizarre fashion commentaries in the NYT Style section lately - we haven't seen much "hip model" - related crappy analysis for some of the weirdest pieces, from early 2003, follows - I am not responsibe if you feel that someone underestimates your intelligence...

"...Paris and Milan are the two places where modeling agencies each season import new talent to be started in a difficult business. Tastes in beauty tend to be adventurous among European fashion makers, and it is on the Continent that trends in beauty also take flight.
It is in Paris and Milan that the industry books odds on the new stars of magazines and runways. During the fashion season, certain streets in these two cities have something of the quality of the magical river bends certain anglers dream about, where extraordinary creatures arise above the water, hatched out of who knows where, and are just as suddenly gone. One year it is lush Brazilians or beaky Belgians or quirky Britons or Russians with child's pouts and sexy, suspicious hooded eyes. Styles roll on inexorably, however, and on the evidence of four fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, this bids to be a pie-plate year.
With no obvious new national or ethnic vein being mined by talent scouts (and certainly not one that benefits black, Latina or Asian models), the current preference in the business where beauty is capital is for young people of no particular beauty — women with attenuated limbs, tiny heads and a range of expression that can sometimes put an observer in mind of an aquarium.
Elise Crombez, Madeleine Blomberg or Adina Fohlin are a few of the aggressively nondescript women seen everywhere on catwalks this season, frequently in the first entrance (which is called an exit) at a fashion show, a position that signals designer favor and often a trend. "She is the show star of the season," Nian Fish, the creative director of KCD, a fashion show producer, said of Ms. Crombez, backstage at the Chloe presentation in Paris a week ago. The usual gaggle of slender young women were clustered behind clothes racks on a bright early morning, laughing and gossiping and smoking Marlboro Lights.
"Elise is Belgian, but she's a sexy Belgian," said Ms. Fish of Ms. Crombez, who is 21 and comes from Koksijde, a town near the border of France. "She opened Prada," added Ms. Fish, referring to one of Fashion Week's most important runways shows, one that was notable this year for its tone of chic but anonymous androgyny.
Ms. Blomberg is a severe young Swede who opened the Louis Vuitton show last week and is featured in the latest Miu Miu campaign. She was cast for Vuitton, the designer Marc Jacobs said, less for her facial beauty than for her height and her peculiarly somnambulist walk.
Ms. Fohlin is another Swede ubiquitous on runways this season. Not long ago she had decided to quit the modeling business, which had been unreceptive, only to discover suddenly that designers like Alexander McQueen, who featured her prominently in his Paris show, were seeking precisely "a girl who doesn't look like a typical model," said Myriam Obadia, the creative director of Ms. Fohlin's agency, Next.
What she, Ms. Crombez and Ms. Blomberg look like are "students on the runway for the first time," Emmanuelle Ault, the fashion director of French Vogue, said.
If modeling is "always a business that creates the looks," said Ms. Obadia, a vehicle for transporting to the global-image market whatever form of beauty seems fresh at the time, there will likewise always be changes in how beauty is symbolized.
There are moments, Ms. Obadia added, when "it's all about a particular strong kind of beauty," the kind exemplified by supermodels in the 1990's, a time when the steady flow of money created a backdrop for a certain kind of vain, hoof-stamping loveliness — that of, say, Linda Evangelista, whose famous remark that she would not get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day now seems emblematic of a dated opulence.
IN leaner times, beauty, too, gets pared down. "These things come in cycles," said Alex de Betak, the director of Bureau Betak, one of the premier fashion show production houses. "It's a trend like every other trend."
Mr. Betak was speaking at last week's Chanel show, held in the Carrousel du Louvre. The parade of models deployed by Chanel's designer, Karl Lagerfeld, included most of the big name "girls" currently at work; as a group, they displayed Mr. Lagerfeld's clothes efficiently, a progression of sleek but interchangeable cogs.
Also working in the Chanel show that morning was the lovable, and lovably off-kilter, 1970's model Pat Cleveland, along with her son and daughter, Noel and Anna Van Ravenstein.
As Ms. Cleveland mugged from the runway, blew kisses to friends in the front row and pranced in delight, she gave some observers the impression of being a representative of fashion's sister planet, a place where personality is a natural complement to beauty and where the height of beauty is not an ability to impersonate an automaton.
"Designers don't want someone too recognizable at the moment," said Mr. Betak, whose wife, the French gamin Audrey Marnay, seemed faintly out of place in the show. "Now what is more important and more efficient," Mr. Betak added, "is neutrality in whoever is wearing the clothes."...

Obviously, a successful model agent needs to have "nondescript" models with a "somnambulist walk" -or attenuated limbs and tiny heads- in reserve, just in case...

Despite all the crapola, Next Models still gets little respect from the cabal...they probably can't come up with mods that are hideous enough for the job...

Art, Postmodernism, Warholites and the High Fashion cabal - II

A few more details on KCD - probably the most influencial fashion PR people in NYC, along with Kevin Krier and Alex de Betak (Audray Marnay's husband)

After Duka died of AIDS in 1989 and Keeble of breast cancer in 1990, Paul Cavaco "inherited" the company - today it is supposedly run by Edwin Filipowski and Julie Mannion. KCD was the first NYC fashion PR firm to open an overseas office - they followed Tom Ford in his invasion of the Paris fashion biz, back in 2000. You may remember that after AW and the Newhouses got rid of the president of Conde Nast France, Gardner Bellanger, and the Paris Vogue editrix, Juliet Buck, Tom Ford had his long-time (and Testino's) assistant, Carine Roitfeld, installed as editrix at Paris Vogue. He also engineered a major shift in Parisian fashion aesthetics by replacing Natalia Semanova in the Yves Saint Laurent Beaute Opium fragrance campaign by a grotesquely retouched Karen Elson, in one of the most hideous campaigns in history. By pure coincidence, KCD's Meisel did the shooting - and Tom Ford was of course represented by KCD.

As for their clients (2003 info) - "...KCD's client list includes YSL, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Versace, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Vogue magazine and Cartier...produces the fashion shows of many of the best designers, plans parties such as Valentino's 40th anniversary (at which Gwyneth Paltrow and Tom Hanks were guests), and organizes the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards, the fashion industry's equivalent of the Academy Awards...they produced the shows for Alexander McQueen, Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Chloe, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Ralph Lauren, Sean John, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent and hot young designer Zac Posen. In Paris, the company also threw a party for about 800 people for designer Helmut the Yves Saint Laurent show, always the last big show of Paris fashion week and held in the evening at the Rodin Museum, Ed Filipowski escorted France's first lady, Bernadette Chirac backstage to meet designer Tom Ford and then to her front-row seat..."

Andy Warhol's original swindle, Interview mag, is also a client...

After Tom Ford left Gucci Group, it was revealed that YSL, including the previously profitable Beaute business, did miserably under his helm and that Gucci Group finances were used to prop up some of AW's proteges - and KCD clients - such as McQueen...

As for Krier - some of the same names pop up, so there are complex inter-relationships between NYC fashion PR types, or perhaps the same person is pulling the strings behind all of them...

(2001 info) - Krier was an actor before he started Kevin Krier & Associates, a special events production company that stages fashion shows as well as events such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America's awards. When producing a runway show, Krier oversees the selection of music, models, theme and venue--just about everything but the clothes.
Krier arrived in New York in 1981, after touring the regional theater circuit as an actor. His first show was for designer Bill Robinson, and he graduated to working for designers including legends Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent...Krier credits his success to his highly efficient staff of 10, and the opportunity to work with visionary fashion designers. "I can learn from Tom [Ford, Gucci's creative director] every minute. I've had some great experiences with young designers like Todd Oldham."...

IMG has bought nearly everything lately, so their mods are favored in the events they control - "...IMG currently owns and operates a number of the world’s most important fashion events under the IMG FASHION business including Olympus Fashion Week (New York), Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios (Los Angeles), Fashion Fringe (London), and the Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami presented by LYCRA® (Miami). IMG has associations with other fashion weeks around the world and has previously produced Lakme India Fashion Week...IMG has signed an agreement to acquire Australian Fashion Innovators (AFI) and with it the region's premier fashion event, Mercedes Australian Fashion Week..."

Art, Postmodernism, Warholites and the High Fashion cabal

It's fairly easy to understand why "hip" fashion models look a certain way, if you know about the people who influence the fashion modeling biz and their mentality. NYC "high fashion", ever since the late 70s, is controlled by a particular group of people who have one thing in common - they are Andy Warhol groupies. For many, Andy was the greatest artist the USA has ever produced, so it's logical that the NYC fashion cabal iconises Warhol. The group includes characters like the infamous S Meisel and the lesser-known Paul Cavaco - responsible (along his his daughter) for Allure, and also Harper's Bazaar in the past. People like Cavaco regard little-known biz figures like US Vogue ex-editor Kezia Keeble as very important, perhaps more so than A Wintour. It was people like Keeble who got them in the biz, a decade before AW became the US Vogue editrix in 1988. Keeble is the K in KCD - one of the top NYC fashion PR houses since 1985. Meisel was working with KCD from the very beginning, with clients like Versace. Today, the same people and their minions control all NYC fashion publications, with the exception of US Elle - which is run by French interests and is seen as an outsider.
After the cabalists realized that high fashion was a dead end and beauty/cosmetics offered the best financial opportunities for the future, they infiltrated that biz sector in force - although they used to claim that beauty/cosmetics work was suitable only for retiring fashion models and routinely made fun of "unchic" mods working for beauty brands like L'Oreal. Today, the cabal has conveniently forgotten its past critique and is getting into L'Oreal too, with people like J Kaliardos from V and Garren/Pita from Meisel's side working for the brand.
Meisel and his pals remain avid Warholites - it's important to understand Warhol's philosophy in order to figure out how high fashion operates, especially since 2000 when biz control passed to NYC, with Paris and Milan playing a next to zero role.
First of all, people should know that the fashion cabal's "artists" (photographers, stylists, etc) have nothing to do with real art, and especially its avant-garde side - they view whatever "art" they do as simply a successful business, just like Andy W did. This is the reason the hardcore artsy crowd in NYC and London treat fashionistas like lepers - AW has struggled for years to get NYC museums and art centers to even bother with fashion, and succeeded only recently, thanks to help from people like the Lauders, major donors of such institutions but also her clients, since they own Estee Lauder.
Andy was a postmodernist - an useful excerpt from a paper on the subject:
...The end of the Twentieth century marked a change in American society with the mass consumption of goods. From this mass consumption spawned a new cultural era in art. This new era was dubbed postmodernism. One of the leading artists of this new era was Andy Warhol...
In essense, postmodernism is the enemy of modernity in everything - and avant-garde art, which is always after something new and original. Warhol did not take art seriously - he himself said that "Making money is art, and working is art and good business is the best art."
In its Warhol form, postmodernism is the father of today's "trash" culture. One example - celebrity gossip in fact started with the foundation of Interview, a mag Warhol intended as a vehicle which could make money by selling trash celeb/socialite gossip. The aim was to guarantee employment for his party friends, many of whom worked for the magazine.
The fashion cabal shares the same mentality - selling trash labelled as "fashion" is for them a sarcastic joke on the clueless middle/upper classes, who will buy hipness enthusiastically without realizing that they are in fact making fools of themselves. Miuccia Prada, a cabal fellow-traveller, has openly said many times that her fashion designs are simply a joke on the bourgoisie...
High fashion is always retro, and never attempts to offer anything novel - pastiche is the code word here, one which Karl Lagerfeld likes a lot. This is the reason the NYC cabal (along with their London and Paris allies, who always depended on hype and theatrics to sell their inferior products) hates Milan - Italian fashion grew to an 80 billion dollar business by offering technically superior and novel products rather than depending on retro trends or "fur trim on everything". The cabal knows that people will always choose quality when they are offered an alternative to trash - which is why they will never allow quality models to appear in the mags or campaigns they control. Quality is bad for business - in their world.

If you like to see a movie that ridicules the philosophy - which manifests, as someone notes, in "...gender bending, camp, masquerade, varieties of cross dressing, collapsed high/low dress distinctions, proliferating anti-fashion genres and pastiche styles..." check out Robert Altman's 1993 Pret-à-Porter - a movie universally hated by high fashion "professionals".
The funny thing is - these characters tend to see themselves as social subversives...Rowland has pictures of Che Guevara in his agency...
On a lower level, the Warhol influence appears as the "inspiration" Andy's famous transvestite stars bring to S Meisel's model selection (Karen Elson looking like Jackie Curtis, according to the NYT), Meisel again shaving the eyebrows off his fave mods, or the fact that every other male model looks like Joe Dallesandro, the star of Warhol's Flesh and Trash...

Thursday, July 06, 2006

New sexy Russian tennis babe with fashion aspirations?
Yep, it's Maria Kirilenko...

Saturday, July 01, 2006

Damn - even when you don't want to believe conspiracy theories, they smack you in the face...Brazil just lost to France, and I am glad I didn't bet money on a Brazilian World Cup win like most...

There was the affair of the 1998 WC final, when Brazil played shitty football and lost to France - Brazil then wins the 2002 WC in Korea easily, and we get to 2006, with major WC sponsor Adidas behind Germany, Spain, Argentina and France (from a total of 6 teams) big rival Puma sponsoring Italy (among 12 teams) and Nike dressing Brazil and Portugal (among 8 teams).

Argentina, easily the best Adidas team, plays shitty football against the Germans, their coach makes childish mistakes, the best Argie players miss their penalties, and Germany advances...both Adidas teams, but Germany has to be one of the two finalists. Portugal beat sorry England earlier today, and a Brazil win would result in two Nike, one Puma and only one Adidas team in the final four.

France plays well, but the Brazilian defense clears the ball easily almost every time - then Zidane takes a foul kick, five (!!) Brazilian defenders go to sleep and leave only three teammates chasing five French players toward the post - nobody follows Henry, who scores easily. The Brazilian coach replaces Kaka who was among of the best up to that point, and leaves tired Ronaldo in the game...the Brazos look like a mess all evening and can't even shoot straight (the French goalkeeper, Barthez - also known as ex Mr Linda Evangelista II - has a very easy day)

What about England, the sole team sponsored by Umbro? They are so pathetic, they probably wouldn't score against Portugal even if they kept playing for another 24 hours...Portugal is a mess, but at least they know how to score from the penalty mark...

Semifinals - Germany against Italy, France against Portugal...looks like a Germany vs France final.

Spice Boy is finished, the talk is that he will move to the USA next year to play football's reportedly up to Posh Spice to decide if she likes NYC (Red Bulls) or Los Angeles (Galaxy) better - Beckham has already opened a football academy in the Los Angeles suburb of Carson with the owners of the Galaxy...

Thursday, June 29, 2006

The "Devil Wears Prada" opens in NYC this weekend, so it's time for the local fashion pros to prove once again to AW that they are indeed her loyal and devout the movie review in the Conde Nast - friendly NYT Style section and weep (or laugh, or puke or whatever)

The news here is that someone from Elle is actually quoted...why is the respected NYT always paying attention solely to Vogue - about 98% of the time, with the rest of its attention going to Bazaar (when there is a negative story about its editrix) while pretending Elle doesn't exist?
Well, perhaps globalized high fashion journalism shows the way for the rest of the freedom-loving media - Hearst doesn't complain much, so why should others care? Bazaar people are the classic wannabe losers - if Vogue stopped publishing one day, they wouldn't have a reason to exist any more...when AW used the top names from the "hip in NYC" model charts, H Bazaar contractors used every new entrant into the hippy roster, 50 or more places below the voguey choices, to show that they were "fresher"...of course, selecting mods of a different aesthetic was probably too much to ask of them...

For those who think AW's look is original - she actually copies Mary Quant in every way, inc the hairstyle...a pic of Mary with her partner, in front of their second fashion store in London, back in 1961 - does the store logo (Bazaar) look familiar?

Elle is a different story - when the US edition of Elle launched in NYC in the late 80s, the effect on the US women's mag business was profound - Bazaar was mortally wounded and has never recovered, while Vogue competed so poorly that a new editrix had to be brought in to save the mag - A Wintour. This traumatic experience, similar to the effect that the launch of Maxim had on traditional US men's mags like GQ, is still being felt and the voguey crowd would rather not discuss Elle at all. Not to mention that Elle is all about the global sensual boho woman, a direct assault to the dry WASPy princess image that Vogue and Bazaar sell. I read somewhere that Cindy Crawford was the first woman with brown hair/eyes to ever appear on the cover of a US fashion publication back in the 80s - and I believe it.

Anyone knows what happened to Elizabeth Perfoll? Last I heard, she was in a campaign for Riachuelo in Brazil (pic, right)...she is somewhat famous for being Kaka's ex-girlfriend, they broke up just before the World Cup in Korea, four years ago...I met her in a model contest when she was 15 yo, she is probably taller than even Ana Hickmann
The blonde is Marina San Vicente

You've noticed that I am paying little attention to US fashion mag financial data this year - the main reason is that since the Conde Nasties decided to accept crappy advertising from Wal-Mart and the like, to save A Wintour from the embarassment of posting more yearly DECREASES in ad-page count, the game is the plain stats will tell you little.

This blog has consistently exposed the true -and very shitty- financial performance of US Vogue for many years, very different from the picture painted in the glowing press reports you may have seen in Conde Nast -friendly understand how the competion has cought up with AW's rag, note the following data, for Jan-May 2006:

Notice that US Elle, with 879 ad pages, generates 96 mil while Vogue's 1132 ad pages account for 141 mil...

As for the US dollars that each ad page generates - 10.92K for Elle and 12.46K for Vogue, a very small difference...

Note the data for the "prestigious" W - every ad page generates only...7.59K dollars !!!! No wonder they keep publishing semi-nude photos of Kate Moss...

Remember what you have been told all these years? That maybe Vogue isn't doing all that great when it comes to circulation, but because it is so "prestigious", the mag can generate far more dollars from the same ad pages than anyone else. It seems however that despite all the "new prestige" (like AW's "new elegance" and "new beauty") that Wal-Mart has brought to Conde Nast, things are not exactly all that rosy...

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Sabrina Jales may be thinking - "If I keep the intensity up, I will eventually morph into Jessica Alba...and I will be a lot taller..."

New dark hair color looks nice - Sabrina is now officially 22 yo

Friday, June 23, 2006

An exclusive calendar with 25 Brazilian top models photographed by Bob Wolfenson is to be launched on July 12th. The calendar comes with a DVD full of mod interviews - to be broadcasted on GNT TV in Brazil.
The calendar includes sensual pics of (mostly) sensual mods - not the recent Pirelli-style "high fashion" crap or Gisele's airbrushed nipples...
Mods being featured - Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrósio, Ana Beatriz Barros, Ana Claudia Michels, Camila Finn, Carol Trentini, Caroline Ribeiro, Cintia Dicker, Fernanda Tavares, Gisele Bündchen, Isabeli Fontana, Jeísa Chiminazzo, Jessica Pauletto, Letícia Birkheuer, Liliane Ferrarezi, Luciana Curtis, Marcelle Bittar, Mariana Weickert, Michelle Alves, Raica Oliveira, Raquel Zimmermann, Renata Maciel, Shirley Malmann, Solange Wilvert and Talytha Pugliese

Since this is real photography by a well-known and respected photographer (as opposed to "high fashion" photography by Conde Nast contractors, which is a cheaply-produced swindle job intended to sell luxury products to "It" girls and the nouveaue riche) the calendar can be ordered through any bookstore that carries photography books/calendars...

I am not sure what the 16yo olds will look like in the pics, but it's a good excuse to show off their bods...btw you can watch original Brazilian TV shows (inc the one with the Raica interview) on TV Globo, which is right now FTA on Hotbird 13 deg East in Europe...

Ronaldo scored twice against Japan, Raica should be relieved...she was pissed when everybody (even the Brazilian president) was calling Ron a "fat boy"
Nice interview with a relaxed Raica, from a Brazilian TV talk show

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

This is scandal season in Italy...the big football scandal, involving the Juventus director and many others, is followed by raunchy exposes featuring some well-known local personalities:

It seems that the ex-King, Vittorio Emanuele of Savoy, "helped to procure prostitutes for an Italian casino" - more about this debacle here...his son is the equally infamous Emanuele Filberto, a major asshole...
Classic dialog involving the ex-King, on R&R to Milan:

A conversation with Venetian businessman Ugo Bonazza:
VE I’m going to Milan . . . and I’ve got three quarters of an hour now . . . I wanted to go to a whore . . . to go again to . . . what was her name?
Bonazza Alice, Alice. [supplies the address]. She’s there, ring the bell, number 18, where it says “Yoga”, you remember?
VE I’ll give her €200 and no more, eh?
Bonazza No no, you don’t have to give her anything. Just a wave, a little kiss. Tell her I’ll sort it out later

As they say - "pay no more than 200 euro"...

An even spicier affair just exploded, with state TV (RAI) executives allegedly asking various aspiring starlets for sexual favors in exchange for their very own show on RAI of the names mentioned is Elisabetta Gregoraci who is often seen next to Flavio Briatore...she started as Miss Calabria, did the usual nudie calendars and even some Wonderbra ads before jumping to TV and cinema

Monday, June 19, 2006

Politics detour -- Don't you love conspiracy theories? Hehe...

Check out this news story - by the respected BBC, in case some people claim it is a hoax...the spy ring cracking started in 2004
The recent news -and the real beef - is here, amazingly this appeared in the equally respected London Times... tells you how much some people in the UK hate Tony Blair nowdays...

If you google the names, you will see that this story has received very little attention from Western news sources - no wonder, if you notice the part where it says:

In a bizarre twist, Hussein Khattab, a Palestinian member of the spy ring, who is still at large, is the brother of Sheikh Jamal Khattab, an Islamic cleric who has allegedly recruited Arab fighters for al-Qaeda in Iraq.

The "bizarre" part is that this agent is closely connected to people who keep the terror campaign going in Iraq, thus helping Dubya claim that he is there to do the right thing - fighting Bin Laden's people...for this to work, a high-profile bogeyman like Al-Zarkawi, along with a strong organization, is needed...
Of course, terror networks are heavily penetrated by all sorts of secret agents, who sometimes may show more zeal than the actual terrorists - but conspiracy theorists will certainly have a field day

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Why do I still bother, you ask - well, maybe one day, even the most clueless out there will eventually figure out why the hippest models look a certain way, and stop trying to discover "alternative" versions of beauty and being in constant denial...

I mean - why do you think the sort of people who love the idea of a naked Amanda Lepore doll balk at the notion of sexy women in swimsuits? They perhaps think that sexy mods are not "high fashion" enough? Or maybe that nudity is "wrong"? Yeah, right...

If you watched the recent Kate Moss special on E! you saw that her minders won't let her open her mouth in public ever since that Bailey interview in 1998 where she came across as a rather unglamorous Croydon gal...S Meisel also hasn't said anything in public for decades - not suprisingly, since this is his last known quote, as detailed in the Gross book "Model" - from my earlier Blog:

Gross mentions an interview Meisel once gave to the gay mag Advocate, in which he says he always liked to photograph "...more effeminate-looking men, more masculine-looking women, and drag queens in hopes of teaching that there is a wide variety of people...there's absolutely a queer sensibility to my work...but there's also a sense of humor...a sarcasm and a fuck you attitude as well as a serious beauty"

Unless you believe A Wintour's fave photographer changed his mind, the fresh versions of the same "fuck you" models can still be seen in Vogue Italia (like the masculine H Rhoda in the latest issue, supposedly having something to do with Jane Fonda's workout videos - at least that's the intepretation for the average Joe) and most major high fashion campaigns...

Fashionable NYC characters continue to provide major comic relief for free - most people would be willing to pay for the service...

As you may know(?) many A Wintour minions are involved in something called DIFFA (The Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS). To fïght AIDS, they decided to produce and sell a doll (three actually - called Glam, Couture Baby and Look Better Naked) modelled after Amanda Lepore. Amanda is of course " of New York's most influential transvestite, drag, and transgendered performers..." - but in a country where porn stars become born-again "Christians", Amanda is as qualified as any to lead the fight against AIDS...

Not all art intended for DIFFA fundraisers is as tasteful - some years ago, the organization decided that an art piece by a Jeff Owen "...depicting a Ken doll and an Aladdin doll perched together on Aladdin's flying carpet..." was inappropriate - probably coz none of two heroes was a female impersonator...

For those who wonder why McQueen adores Pam - not coz she is S8 sexy...

I know what you may be thinking - why not a Lady Bunny doll?
After all, the Lady (with Pam in the pic) is far more influential than Amanda in hip NYC circles -she gets invited to every Marc Jacobs party- but IMO, Anna Wintour vetoed her, since we all know how determined she is to keep costs down, and a Lady Bunny doll would probably cost over three times as much to produce than any normal doll - she is such a "big" character...

That's hardly the whole story - as the official Lady Bunny blog informs us, by late March 06, the Amanda Lepore doll had sold out - "...the initial run of Amanda Lepore dolls by designer Jason Wu have sold out after having been available at Jeffrey less than two days...among those that wanted dolls, but couldn't get them, are Pamela Anderson, Hugh Hefner, and Mister and Mister Elton John..."
Every trash symbol wanted one - so, what was the solution to the crisis?
Hang on - Mr Wu was somehow "inspired" by Maggie Rizer's "beauty" and decided to produce a new series of dolls modelled after Maggie !!
Of course, Karl Lagerfeld could not be possibly left out from all this crapola, so the "inspiration" reportedly came from some old photos he had taken of Maggie...I don't think it's the infamous Fendi shots from the late 90s, coz Maggie was so overexposed in those you couldn't tell what she actually looked like...or maybe that was the point.